Page 120 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

118  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION

b León

León was founded in AD 68 as a camp for the Romans’
Seventh Legion. In 914, King Ordoño II transferred the
Christian capital here from Oviedo. After repeately uniting
with, then separating from Castile, the two finally united in
the 13th century though Castile, with its capital in Burgos,
began to overshadow León as the pre-eminent regional
power. León remained strong, however, and the town’s
most stunning monuments date from this period.

Exploring León for the nose and eyes. The
Most of the old quarter (casco monks carry richly decorated Part of the Renaissance façade of the
viejo) is encircled by walls and pasos – platforms bearing Palacio de los Guzmanes
pedestrianized. The magnifi cent figures of saints and scenes
cathedral is a good pace to from the Passion of Christ. in Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia
begin a tour of the historic in Barcelona. The building
monuments that have survived P Palacio de los Guzmanes is currently used by a bank.
from the Golden Age of this One of the most beautiful
former regional capital. The Renaissance residences in León, R Basílica de San Isidoro
city’s most important buildings built in 1559–66, stands next to Plaza San Isidoro 4. Tel 987 87 61 61.
are found in the charming the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Open 7am–11pm daily. Museum:
streets around the cathedral. This three-storey building, Open May & Jun: 10am–2pm &
currently the seat of the 4–7pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm Fri & Sat),
provincial authorities, is centred 10am–3pm Sun; Jul–Sep: 9am–
on an arcaded patio, with 9pm Mon–Sat, 9am–3pm Sun; Oct–
gargoyles on the roof, corner Apr: 10am–2pm & 4–7pm Mon–Sat,
towers, and numerous coats 10am–2pm Sun. & 8
∑ museosanisidorodeleon.com
of arms on the façade. There
are offices on the ground floor, Adjoining the city walls, the
but the upper sections of the basilica was built on the remains
building are closed to visitors. of an earlier church to house the
relics of San Isidoro of Seville. Its
P Casa de Botines construction spanned the 10th
This magnificent building, which to mid-18th centuries. The walls
resembles a Gothic castle, was of the royal mausoleum – the
designed by Antoni Gaudí in final resting place of 23 monarchs,
Arcaded period houses lining the 1892. It was erected in record 10 princes, 9 counts and
Plaza Mayor time – a mere 10 months. Gaudí several nobles – are decorated
agreed to take on the task as he with beautiful 12th-century
R Cathedral was working simultaneously on Romanesque murals. Among
See pp120–21. the Palacio Episcopal in nearby them is a cycle devoted to the life
Astorga (see p117), and could of Christ, including a powerful
P Plaza Mayor oversee both projects at once. Last Supper, and one surviv ing
The square, in the picturesque The façade sports a figure of St sign of the zodiac. The museum
old quarter, is surrounded by old George fighting the dragon, a contains paintings and frescoes
houses with delightful arcades. replica of which later appeared from the royal mausoleum.
The Plaza Mayor is home to
León’s administrative offices.
A good time to visit is on the
feast days of St John, in the last
week of June, when the square
comes alive with fireworks on
the riverside, fairs and medieval
festivities as well as modern
forms of entertain ment. More
religious in tone are the Semana
Santa (Easter Week) celebrations,
when the square plays host to
processions of monks dressed
in special costumes and cone-
shaped hats with openings only The castle-like Casa de Botines, designed by Antoni Gaudí
For hotels and restaurants see pp204–5 and pp217–19

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