Page 23 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain
P. 23

A  POR TR AIT  OF  NOR THERN  SP AIN      21

       The peoples of the
       north also share some
       charac teristics of all
       Spaniards – especially
       their Iberian gregariousness.
       They are just as devoted
       to social izing, whether on
       an evening paseo (stroll)
       or eating out in a convivial
       group. These are some
       of the friendliest parts
       of the country, less
       jaded by tourism than   The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao’s prestigious landmark
       Mediterranean regions.
       Northern fiestas – great showcases of    Spain created since 1975, integrated into
       local traditions and foods – are among   the European Union and with a system of
       Spain’s most exuberant, from Pamplona’s   regional self-government (Autonomías).
       San Fermín to the flower parades    For Spanish-speaking regions like Asturias
       of Cantabrian harbours.       and La Rioja the “Autonomies” have
                                     become useful arms of local government.
       Modern Times                  In Galicia, nationalism has always been
       In Spain’s modern history the regions    quite mild, but has lately become more
       of the north have followed varying    demanding. The Basque government
       paths. Some joined the Industrial   has greater powers than any other region
       Revolution early in the 19th century,    in Europe, but a substantial proportion
       with shipbuilding, iron and steel in    of Basques want total independence –
       the Basque Country, coal mining and   although few sympa thize with the
       shipbuilding in Asturias. This made them   militant nationalist group ETA. The
       centres of progressive dynamism in    declaration of a ceasefire by ETA in
       the struggle to make Spain a modern   March 2006 briefly raised hopes of a
       state, while areas like Navarra and rural   permanent solution, but ETA called
       Galicia were known for an unchanging   off the ceasefire less than a year later.
       conservatism. The rise of Basque   In October 2011, ETA announced a
       nationalism also undermined faith in    definitive ceasefire, without conditions.
       the status quo. Asturias was the base    The north’s economic trans formation
       for a socialist revolt                   has been striking.
       in 1934, and when                        The coal, steel and
       the Spanish Civil War                    shipbuilding industries
       erupted two years later                  declined rapidly in the
       both it and the Basques                  1980s, causing severe
       resisted General Franco’s                hardship. Fishing, too,
       right-wing army. The                     has come under pressure
       victorious Franco regime                 from EU quotas. However,
       regarded them with                       tourism and Spain’s
       intense suspicion; their                 industrial diversifi cation
       rebelliousness was met                   have since opened up
       with harsh repression.                   new possibilities. Most
        The northern regions                    dramatic of all has been
       have continued to fare   The bull run (encierro) during Pamplona’s    the revitalization of the
       differently in the new   San Fermín festival  now stylish Bilbao.




   018-021__portret_.indd   21                               13/09/16   5:29 pm
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