Page 164 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur
P. 164

162   PROVENCE  AREA  B Y  AREA


                                               colonnaded public building,
                                               Pompey’s Portico. The site is
                                               dotted with copies of original
                                               statues that are now kept in
                                               the Musée Théo Desplans, and
                                               include a powerful nude of
                                               Hadrian and his well-draped
                                               empress, Sabina. Many statues
                                               were designed to have their
                                               heads replaced whenever
                                               there was a change of local
                                               officials. Other remains include
                                               a communal six-seater latrine
                                               and a 3rd-century silver bust,
                                               which once stood in the hall of
                                               a patrician’s house in La Villasse,
       The Belvédère Pasteur garden in Bollène  the district on the other side of
                                               the avenue Général-de-Gaulle.
       1Bollène            The modern town sits beside the   The Haute-Ville, which artists
                           Roman town, opposite the hilltop   and craftspeople helped to
       Road map B2. * 14,400. £ @
       n Pl Reynaud de la Gardette   Haute-Ville on the other side of   re-populate, is reached by means
       (04 90 40 51 45). ( Mon.   the river. Vaison is a smart address   of a Roman bridge, a single 56-ft
       ∑ bollenetourisme.com  for Parisians’ second homes and,   (17-m) span used for more than
                           judging by the opulent remains   2,000 years until devastating
       Despite being spread along the   left by the Romans, it has   floods necessitated huge
       A7 autoroute, Bollène is pleasant,   long been sought   repairs. Entrance is
       with airy boulevards and walks   after. The Romans   via a 14th-century
       beside the river Lez, where there   lived with the native   fortified gate.
       is a camping site. The narrow   Celtic Vocontii and   The Romanesque
       streets of the old quarter lead   the population was   church, built as a
       to the 11th-century Collégiale   around 10,000. Two   cathedral, has 7th-
       St-Martin, with its timber saddle-  sites have been   century columns
       back roof and Renaissance door-  excavated, divided   in the apse, and a
       way. Bollène became famous in   by the avenue Général-  12th-century cloister.
       1882, when Louis Pasteur stayed  de-Gaulle. The upper   Mosaic in the museum   A walk to the summit
       here and developed innoculation  site, known as the   at Vaison-la-Romaine  reveals the ruined
       against swine fever. The Belvédère  Puymin Quarter, has a   castle the victorious
       Pasteur garden above the town   Roman theatre, still used for   Counts of Toulouse built in 1160.
       has views over the Rhône valley   Vaison’s summer festival in July,
       to the Cévennes, the Bollène   centred on dance. Its stage is   T Roman City
       hydroelectric power station and   cut out of rock, and the theatre   Fouilles de Puymin and Musée
       Tricastin nuclear power plant. The   seats up to 6,000. Many Roman   Archeologique Théo Desplans, Pl du
       town hosts free open-air concerts  remains come from the villa   Chanoine Sautel. Tel 04 90 36 50 48.
       from early July to August.  of a wealthy family, the House   Open daily. Closed Jan. & =
        South of Bollène is the clifftop   of the Messii, and an elegant,   7 restricted. 8
       fortress of Mornas, built by the
       Earl of Toulouse, which was later
       fought over for its strategic posi-
       tion during the Wars of Religion.
       The steep climb is rewarded by
       superb views of the Rhône valley.
       2Vaison-la-
       Romaine
       Road map B2. * 6,429. @ n Pl du
       Chanoine Sautel (04 90 36 02 11).
       ( Tue. ∑ vaison-ventoux-
       tourisme.com
       The pavement cafés in this
       attractive stone-and-red-roof
       town on the river Ouvèze are
       among Provence’s most chic.   Grounds of Roman house with 3rd-century silver bust, Vaison-la-Romaine
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see p201 and pp215–16
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