Page 84 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

82  PROVENCE AREA B Y AREA

Château-Musée Grimaldi

In the Middle Ages the Grimaldi family held sway over
many of the Mediterranean coastal towns. The castle that
towers over Haut-de-Cagnes was built by Rainier in 1309
as a fortress-prison; in 1620 his descendant, Jean-Henri,
transformed it into the handsome palace which shelters
behind its dramatic battlements. Mercifully, the château
survived the worst ravages of the Revolution and later
occupation by Piedmontese troops in 1815. It now houses
an eclectic mixture of museums,
from olives to modern art.
Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s studio at
Les Collettes
yCagnes-sur-Mer
Road map E3. * 47,156. £ @
n 6 blvd Maréchal Juin (04 93 20
61 64). ( Tue–Sun. ∑ cagnes-
tourisme.com
There are three parts to Cagnes-
sur-Mer: Cros-de-Cagnes, the
fishing village and beach;
Cagnes-Ville, the commercial
centre; and Haut-de-Cagnes,
the upper town.
Haut-de-Cagnes is the place Second
to head for. This hill-top town floor
is riven with lanes, steps and
vaulted passages. It is domina- Stairs to
ted by the Château-Musée the tower
Grimaldi but also has some
fine Renaissance houses and
the church of St-Pierre, where
the Grimaldis are entombed. The chapel contains
a wealth of religious
East of Cagnes-Ville is Les ornamentation, both ancient
Collettes, built in 1907 among and modern.
ancient olive trees by Pierre-
Auguste Renoir (1841–1919).
He came here, hoping that
the climate would relieve his
rheumatism and stayed for
the rest of his life. A picture
of Renoir in his last year shows
him still at work, a brush tied
to his crippled hand.
Now the Musée Renoir at
Les Collettes is almost exactly
as it was when the artist died.
In the house are 14 of Renoir’s
paintings, as well as works by Gallery Guide
his friends Bonnard and Dufy. The olive tree museum is on the
Renoir’s beloved olive groves ground floor, along with exhibits
are the setting for the bronze about life in the medieval castle.
V V Venus Victrix (1915–16).enus Victrix (1915–16).enus Victrix The Suzy Solidor collection is
. Donation Suzy Solidor displayed in a former boudoir on
E Musée Renoir This 1930s chanteuse was painted the first floor. Selections from the
Chemin des Collettes. by 244 artists during her lifetime. permanent collection of modern
Tel 04 93 20 61 07. Open Wed–Mon. The 40 works on display include Mediterranean art, as well as
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. portraits by Jean Cocteau (above) temporary exhibitions, are on
& 7 = and Kisling (above right). the first and second floors.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11