Page 73 - Homes & Antiques (February 2020)
P. 73

MATERIAL MATTERS Silk













                                                                                                             a bu!er against poverty in rural
                                                                                                             communities,’ explains Hollie
                                                                                                             Moreland, Creative Director at David
                                                                                                             Hunt Lighting and The Light Shade
                                                                                                             Studio. ‘The main silk-producing
                                                                                                             countries are China and India,
                                                                                                             however it is also important in
                                                                                                             Brazil, Thailand and Vietnam
                                                                                                             amongst others.’
                                                                                                                Silk antiques in good condition are
                                                                                                             always collectable and there’s a broad
                                                                                                             spectrum of silk "nds available to
                                                                                                             suit every taste and budget, from
                                                                                                             vintage Japanese kimonos to elegant
                                                                                                             antique embroideries, but silk rugs
                                                                                                             command consistently high prices.
                                                                                                                ‘Antique silk rugs are always
                                                                                                             highly sought a#er,’ says dealer
                                                                                                             Stephen Marsh of Farnham Antique
                                                                                                             Carpets. ‘The sheen of the silk and
                                                                                                             the luxurious texture underfoot
                                                                                                             makes these rugs stand out – plus,
                                                                                                             the workmanship is incredible. They
                                                                                   Whitchurch Silk Mill
                                                                                 ensures the craft of silk   took a long time to create.’
                               THE FUTURE                                     weaving is passed down         Sophisticated Styles
                                                                                  through generations.
                                   OF SILK                                                                   The "nest silk rugs have plenty of
                                                                                                             knots per square inch. ‘Turkish silk
                         Bioengineered synthetic silks                                                       Kumkapi rugs (mostly made between
                                are on the horizon                                                           1916 and 1938 in master weaver
                                                                          The Stella McCartney
                                                                          Microsilk dress was unveiled       Zareh Penyamine’s workshop in
                           Spider silk is much stronger than              at the New York Museum             Istanbul) are particularly stunning,
                          silkworm silk, but silkworms can be             of Modern Art in October           with gold and silver threads, and can
                          farmed, whereas spiders eat each                2017. The Bolt Threads             fetch between £20,000 and £100,000,’
                           other if they’re all kept together.            and Stella McCartney               reveals Stephen. At the more
                         Heralding a new era in sustainable               partnership has also               a!ordable end of the spectrum, small
                                                                          produced Mylo, a synthetic
                          textiles, Bolt Threads (boltthreads.            alternative to leather, made       silk rugs from Fereghan in Persia or
                          com) has developed technology to                using mycelium spores from         Qum in Iran can cost in the region
                         replicate spider silk fibres and create           mushroom roots.                    of £3,000-£5,000.
                         super-strong Microsilk™, which can                                                     ‘The many di!erent faces of silk
                         be produced with less environmental                                                 are endlessly intriguing,’ agrees
                            impact than traditional textile                                                  Lesley. ‘I love the cra#smanship in
                        manufacturing and has the potential to                                               the historical examples, and the
                        biodegrade at the end of its useful life.                                            $uidity and lustre of many of today’s
                                                                                                             silks – and, at the couture level of
                         Genetic code for spider silk proteins                                               production, the extraordinary
                         is put into yeast cells then mixed with                                             innovative approaches to design and
                         sugar and water and left to ferment                                                 embellishment. Now, it is also being
                          in large tanks. The resulting liquid                                               championed as a sustainable "bre.’
                         silk protein is then turned into long,                                                 With cu%ing-edge developments
                        continuous strands of synthetic spider                                               on the horizon (see page 74), perhaps
                           silk, which can then be woven to                                                  silk’s story has only just begun.
                          create soft, durable fabrics. So far,
                        beanie hats, ties and a dress (right) in
                         collaboration with Stella McCartney
                                  have been made.                                                            Turn the page for essential expert advice

                                                                                                             on collecting silk





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