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CHEESE AROUND THE WORLD          101







            Left (top to bottom)  Silky Camembert,   Below (top to bottom)  Traditionally
            one of the world’s most-copied cheeses;   dressed cheese porters load up at
            dairy cows in Normandy, France; turning   the Alkmaar cheese market in the
            Comté in Fort Saint Antoine cellars,   Netherlands; artisanal cheeses on
            home of Fromagerie Marcel Petite    display on an Italian market stand

                                                                 Les Routes du Comté                De Kaaskamer
                                                                 www.lesroutesducomte.com           Runstraat 7, Amsterdam; http://kaaskamer.nl
                                                                 Follow suggested itineraries or tailor your own   In the newly fashionable “Nine Streets” shopping
                                                                 driving tour along this route, and let local farmers   area, this shop, with its floor-to-ceiling selection of
                                                                 demonstrate the care with which Comté is made and   cheeses – including organic Dutch offerings – is
                                                                 how good it is. Dairyman Jean François Marmier runs   sure to keep cheese fans both happy and busy.
                                                                 a herd of Montbeliarde cows, the ones most closely
                                                                 aligned with Comté, which visitors can help milk or   Kaashuis Tromp
                                                                 feed for a more hands-on Alpine experience.   Utrechtsestraat 90, Amsterdam;
                                                                                                    www.kaashuistromp.nl
                                                                                                    Henk van Kol’s “House of Cheese” has expanded
                                                                 LOMBARDY, ITALY                    into a small universe, with another three branches
                                                                 Plump with natural beauty – rivers, lakes,   in Amsterdam and 10 more throughout the
                                                                 mountains – as well as cities brimming with   Netherlands. The flagship store, noted for its friendly
                                                                 art and history, the kingdom of Lombardy is   service, is packed with Dutch cheeses of all
                                                                 also rich in formaggio, with big hitters such as   kinds, including many from small-scale producers,
                                                                 Gorgonzola, Grana Padano, and Taleggio.  along with 250 foreign cheeses.

                                                                 Formaggi Galli
                                                                                                    TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA
                                                                 Piazza Wagner, Milan
                                                                 Marco Galli’s stand in Milan’s huge Piazza Wagner   With its pristine environment, clean, clear
                                                                 food market specializes in Lombardy cheeses. Slow   waters, lush green pastures, and fertile soil,
                                                                 Food supporter Galli is known for sourcing exceptional   Tasmania is home to many boutique dairy
                                                                 Gorgonzola, some aged to mind-blowing maturity.  farms and artisan cheesemakers turning out
                                                                                                    creamy brie styles, full-bodied cheddar, and
                                                                 La Baita del Formaggio             artisanal cow and goat cheeses.
                                                                 Via Italia 42, Milan; www.labaitadelformaggio.it
                                                                 This traditional cheese shop offers up a host of   Bruny Island Cheese Company
                                                                 artisanal Italian cheeses. The Lariano Speziato,    1807 Main Road, Great Bay, Bruny Island;
                                                                 a soft cheese from the mountains surrounding    www.brunyislandcheese.com.au
                                                                 Lake Como, is exclusive to the shop.    On this small island off Tasmania, famed for its
                                                                                                    fairy penguins and other wildlife, Nick Haddow
                                                                 Rossi y Grassi                     churns out handmade cow, sheep, and goat
                                                                 Via Ponte Vetero 4, Milan; www.rg.mi.it   cheeses, ranging from “Barney,” a blue cheese,
                                                                 In the classy Brera district, this top-quality gourmet   and the mild, Gruyère-like “C2” to specialties
                                                                 food shop displays a tempting selection of Italian   such as prosciutto-wrapped and olive oil-marinated
                                                                 cheeses, including fruity Grana Padano and soft   cheeses. See and taste the cheeses being made,
                                                                 Taleggio, plus wines from Italy’s greatest producers.   and don’t miss their home-baked bread and
                                                                 There is another branch close by on Via Solferino.   homemade ice cream too.
                                                                                                    King Island Diary
                                                                 THE NETHERLANDS                    Currie, King Island; www.kidairy.com.au
                                                                 The Dutch have been making cheese since    Situated on another tranquil little island, Australia’s
                                                                 at least the 4th century, with Gouda and    best-known specialty cheese and dairy producer
                                                                 Edam now global favorites. Both towns are   makes a range of creamy bries, pungent blues, and
                                                                 within easy striking distance of Amsterdam.   sharp aged cheddars, and has a tasting room in
                                                                 Don’t miss the legendary cheese carriers at    which they can be discovered.
                                                                 the weekly summer markets.
                                                                                                    Pyengana Cheese Factory
                                                                 Abraham Kef                        St. Columba Falls Road, Pyengana;
                                                                                                    +61 3 6373 6157
                                                                 Marnixstraat 192, Amsterdam; www.abrahamkef.nl
                                                                 A little piece of France in central Amsterdam, this   Australia’s oldest cheddar is made following a
                                                                 shop specializes in French as well as Dutch cheeses.   method developed in the local cooperative in the
                                                                 Their philosophy is that good cheese is inseparable   1890s by cheesemaker Jon Healey’s grandfather.
                                                                 from good wine, and you can enjoy both in the   There are dairy and cheese factory tours by
                                                                 shop’s small dining area.          appointment, plus cheese sales in The Factory Shop.
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