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COPENHAGEN DENMARK 107

The Best Places to
Eat Smørrebrød

COPENHAGEN Ida Davidsen moderate
Five generations of Davidsens can’t be wrong.
Boasting the proudest smørrebrød tradition
in Copenhagen, this family has been making
COPENHAGEN DENMARK
open sandwiches since 1888. Today Ida
Davidsen is queen of the kitchen, with her son
Denmark’s Deluxe Sandwiches Oscar running the cozy cellar establishment
right in the heart of central Copenhagen.
The original Oskar, the current proprietor’s
great-great-grandfather, was a wine merchant,
Danes know how to turn a humble snack into a lavish feast, for the eye as well as the palate, aiming to quench thirsts, not fill bellies, when he
first set up business. But customers weren’t
with their traditional smørrebrød open sandwiches. In Copenhagen, entire restaurants are
used to simply sipping without nibbling, and so
dedicated to this wonderfully versatile dish, and there are many other delights to sample, from the bar began selling smørrebrød to go with the
wines. Today the restaurant has a selection of
shopping paradise Strøget to royal palaces and the colorful Nyhavn harbor area.
250 different smørrebrød to choose from – the
largest in Denmark. The humble sandwich has
The Danish capital – “Wonderful, palaces, the Little Mermaid of children’s story fame, never looked so good, and the only problem is
wonderful Copenhagen” as the old harbor area of Nyhavn, and much more – all actually choosing what to have. Whatever your
heart’s desire, you can probably find it as a
the old movie tune goes – has fueled by smørrebrød, the most Danish of snacks.
sandwich topping here, from the traditional
a long history as a center for Originally called smør og brød, literally meaning
to the more adventurous. Leg of lamb on a
trade and commerce, growing into one of Scandinavia’s “butter and bread,” the Danish open sandwich today
smørrebrød? Not a problem! Bacon, pâté,
most diverse and cosmopolitan cities. Southern Sweden has developed from a simple worker’s packed lunch – herring, meatballs, smoked cheese – anything
and all of Norway were ruled from here for several perhaps a couple of slices of rye bread with cheese – goes, and usually very nicely too.
none-too-peaceful centuries, making Copenhagen the into quite possibly the most varied dish in Denmark. Store Kongensgade 70, Copenhagen (with another
outlet at Ketchup in Tivoli Gardens); open
main hub of Scandinavia, a role it still lays claim to While Swedes make their smorgasbord a feast of small
10:30 AM–4 PM Mon–Fri; www.idadavidsen.dk
today. Warmongering among neighbors is now dishes, Danes simply heap goodies onto slices of bread,
thankfully past; old enemies Denmark and Sweden are piled high and beautifully arranged. Making these
Also in Copenhagen
connected via Europe’s longest bridge and the bartering open sandwiches has become an art form, with the
Slotskælderen hos Gitte Kik on Fortunstræde
in the harbor has been replaced by shopping in the stylishly arranged toppings a perfect match of flavors,
(+45 33 11 15 37; moderate) is another
fabulous pedestrianized district of Strøget. textures, and colors, all splendidly coordinated. long-runner in the smørrebrød stakes,
Despite its size, Copenhagen has a nicely compact Traditionally, dark rye bread is used, setting off celebrating over a century in business.
center, where most of the main sights can be visited on the other colorful ingredients, although it’s not at all Housed in what’s known as the Castle Cellar,
foot. A busy day’s sightseeing can take in several royal uncommon for smørrebrød toppings to be so heavily the restaurant lies directly opposite the Danish
piled that you are left guessing as to whether there is Parliament building, making this a busy spot at
lunch time. Traditional recipes are used, and
actually a slice of bread hiding underneath. Popular
they even pickle their own herring and make
toppings include pink slices of roast beef with pickles
their own schnapps.
and golden roasted onions, roast pork with red
cabbage and orange, smoked salmon with dill, Also in Denmark
cucumber, and lemon, or indeed whatever the chef has Brøndums Hotel (+45 98 44 15 55;
on hand. Find a cozy restaurant, pick your favorite(s), inexpensive) is beautifully located in Skagen,
and dig in. Smørrebrød makes the “wonderful” in on the tip of Jutland – former home to
Scandinavia’s most famous colony of painters.
Copenhagen even more well-deserved.
It’s perfect for old-fashioned smørrebrød in a
scenic setting. The building oozes old-world
charm and has picturesque terrace seating in
What Else to Eat summer overlooking the sea.
Danes eat more pork than any other nationality, and not a
Around the World
single part of their most beloved of meats goes to waste.
Roasted, salted, smoked, cured, even pickled pork is popular, At Madsen Scandinavian Restaurant (www.
and fabulous-tasting sausages, hams, and salamis abound. madsenrestaurant.com; moderate) in London’s
Frikadelle, pork meatballs or rissoles, is one of the best-known fashionable South Kensington district you can
and loved national dishes, often accompanied by boiled
sample traditional smørrebrød in a trendy
potatoes, bright red beets, deep green pickles, and a warming,
setting. They’ve even made up their own,
thick brown sauce. Beef is almost as popular, and a dish
slightly smaller lunch-snack version, called
managing to fit in both meats is biksemad, a hash of cubed
“Smushi,” on either dark rye or sourdough
beef and pork, along with potatoes, carrots, and onions, all
topped off with a fried egg, sunny side up: hearty food to keep bread. Toppings include well-known favorites
the cold at bay in winter and energize you in summer. such as roast beef with remoulade, roast pork
with crackling and red cabbage, and several
tasty vegetarian options.
Left Brightly painted canalside buildings in Nyhavn