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MEZE AROUND THE WORLD          113







            Left (top to bottom)  The beautiful   Below (top to bottom)  Greek meze,
            courtyard setting of the Al-Khawali   with olives, fava beans (foreground),
            restaurant in Damascus, Syria; alfresco   octopus, and (center left) char-grilled
            dining in Istanbul, overlooking the   halloumi cheese; arranging cold meze
            Bosphorus; meze in Egypt   dishes at a Lebanese restaurant

                                                                 La Tabkha moderate                 Abou El Sid expensive
                                                                 Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh, Beirut; +961 1 579 000  157 Sharia 26 July, Zamalek, Cairo; +20 2 2735 9640
                                                                 Modern, minimalist, and contemporary, La Tabkha   Styled like an Orientalist boudoir-restaurant-bar, the
                                                                 serves a terrific array of modern Lebanese dishes   Abou El Sid is one of Cairo’s eating hot spots. Diners
                                                                 with a touch of French influence, including an   recline on cushions pasha-style around low brass
                                                                 excellent lunch-time meze buffet that changes daily.   tables while tucking into well-prepared traditional
                                                                                                    Egyptian cooking, including mouthwatering meze.
                                                                 Shahrazad moderate                 Reservations are essential.
                                                                 6th Floor, Centre Commercial de Yaghi & Simbole,
                                                                 off Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar, Baalbek; +961 8 371 851
                                                                                                    CYPRUS
                                                                 The location may lack style or atmosphere, but
                                                                 it’s the spectacular views over Baalbek’s Roman   Though unquestionably influenced by Turkey
                                                                 ruins that draw a loyal following, along with the   and Greece as well as the Middle East, Cyprus
                                                                 simple but hearty and well-prepared home    nonetheless proudly possesses its own
                                                                 cooking, including a good selection of delicious,   culinary traditions. The Cypriots love and
                                                                 freshly prepared meze.             value their food and keep up a vigorous
                                                                                                    tradition of meze.
                                                                 EGYPT                              Fetta’s inexpensive
                                                                 At one time part and parcel of the Ottoman   Ioanni Agroti 33, Pafos; +357 2693 7822
                                                                 empire and today part of the Middle East,   One of Cyprus’s top traditional restaurants, Fetta’s
                                                                 Egypt has long been influenced by both   bases its reputation on enduring culinary values:
                                                                 regions’ cooking. It has also developed its   quality ingredients, locally sourced, and simple but
                                                                 own distinct versions of meze, using local   sound home cooking passed down the generations.
                                                                 ingredients and cooking traditions.  The meze platter of grilled meats is a specialty.
                                                                 Samakmak moderate                  Zanettos Taverna inexpensive
                                                                 42 Qar Ras At Tin, Alexandria; +20 3 481 1560  Trikoupi 65, Lefkosia; +357 2276 5501
                                                                 Established by a former belly dancer, the Samakmak   One of the oldest surviving tavernas in the Old City,
                                                                 is a cozy, intimate, and atmospheric restaurant. It is   Zanettos is a bit of an institution and retains a loyal
                                                                 best known for its excellent, imaginatively prepared   local following. Though located in a rather lugubrious
                                                                 fish and seafood dishes, which include an unusual   part of town, it’s worth the journey: the meze are
                                                                 and very good meze selection.      superb and the atmosphere convivial and fun.


                                                                   On the Menu in Turkey           Kabak çiçeği dolması  Stuffed zucchini flowers.
                                                                                                   Kısır  Salad made of spiced bulgur wheat.
                                                                   Acı domates ezmesi  Spicy tomato dip.  Lakerda  Tuna fish, sliced and salted.
                                                                   Ançüz  Pickled anchovies.       Mercimek köftesi  Spicy balls made of red lentils
                                                         Şiş       Arnavut ciğeri  Diced, fried lamb liver with raw   and bulgur wheat traditionally served at weddings
                                                                   onion, sumac, chili pepper, and chopped parsley.  and family feasts.
                                                                   Barbunya pilaki  Salad of red beans.  Midye dolması  Stuffed mussels.
                                                                   Beyaz peynir  White sheep or goat cheese.  Patates köftesi  Cheese and potato croquettes.
                                                                   Cacık  Yogurt with grated cucumber and mint,   Patlıcan biber tava  Fried eggplant and sweet
                                                                   served either as a kind of soup or as a dip.  green peppers with tomato sauce and chili pepper.
                                                                   Çerkez tavuğu  Literally, “Circassian chicken” –   Patlıcan ezmesi  Roast eggplant with yogurt.
                                                                   chicken, walnuts, and bread flavored with garlic.  Patlıcan kızartması or salatası  Fried eggplant
                                                                   Deniz börülcesi  Samphire dressed with olive oil,  and tomato, served warm or as a salad.
                                                                   garlic, and lemon and traditionally served with fish  Sarımsaklı havuç  Grated carrot in a garlicky yogurt.
                                                                   and seafood meze.               Semizotu salatasi  Salad of purslane in a yogurt
                                                                   Enginar  Boiled artichoke.      and garlic dressing.
                                                                   Ezme salatası  Tomato and pepper dip.  Sigara böreği  Cigar-shaped pastries deep-fried
                                                                   Fasulye piyazı  Salad of navy beans.  and stuffed with cheese.
                                                                   Fava or fava salatası  A puréed fava bean dip.  Yaprak dolması  Vine leaves stuffed with pine
                                                                   Haydari  Yogurt dip made with garlic and mint.  nuts, rice, and herbs.
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