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SAUSAGES AROUND THE WORLD           133







            Left (top to bottom) An alfresco lunch   Below (top to bottom) Boerewors
            at Zum Wenigemarkt in Erfurt; a   cooking on the barbecue at Lyhala
            Thuringian sausage hot from a charcoal   Game Reserve, South Africa; coiled
            grill; traditional Berlin currywurst from   English Cumberland sausage, one of
            the famous Konnopke’s kiosk   the Lake District’s meaty treats

                                                                 Fleischerei moderate               cosmopolitan black leather, chrome, and glass decor.
                                                                 Torstrasse 116–118; www.fleischerei-berlin.com  But the mix is so successful that the restaurant has
                                                                 A place to actually sit and eat currywurst is a rarity    opened half a dozen branches.
                                                                 in Berlin, which would give this central restaurant
                                                                 with its simple and functional decor an edge even    Karibu expensive
                                                                 if its wurst weren’t so good.      Shop 156, The Wharf Centre, V&A Waterfront,
                                                                                                    Cape Town; www.kariburestaurant.co.za
                                                                                                    Views of Table Mountain and the tranquil blue
                                                                 THE LAKE DISTRICT, UK              Atlantic prepare the palate perfectly for the
                                                                 Cumbria’s contribution to sausage culture is   restaurant’s vibrant South African flavors. The chefs
                                                                 peppery and made of chopped meat, rather   here are experts in barbecuing boerewors over open
                                                                 than minced, giving it a real chunkiness. Its   coals, then serving them with local breads such as
                                                                 notable characteristic is its huge length,   Kaapse broodjie, or with putu and chakalaka
                                                                 forming a great wheel on the plate.   (porridge and relish).

                                                                 Mason’s Arms moderate
                                                                                                    WISCONSIN, USA
                                                                 Cartmel Fell, Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria;
                                                                 www.masonsarmsstrawberrybank.co.uk   Wisconsin’s many German immigrants have
                                                                 High-quality local food and a great selection of local   developed old recipes to create their own
                                                                 ales make this fellside inn stand out. Its Cumberland   signature “brats,” by parboiling them in beer
                                                                 sausage embarks on a successful European   before grilling, part-filling them with cheddar,
                                                                 adventure on a toasted ciabatta, with caramelized   or lacing them with chili pepper, Cajun style.
                                                                 onions, damson chutney, and thin fries.
                                                                                                    Charcoal Inn South inexpensive
                                                                 The Yanwath Gate Inn moderate      1313 South 8th Street, Sheboygan; (920) 458-6988
                                                                 Yanwath, Cumbria; www.yanwathgate.com  South Sheboygan’s annual bratwurst festival is the
                                                                 A quintessential northern English country pub, this   big Wisconsin draw for sausage lovers, but when it’s
                                                                 old inn dates back to 1683. Its chunky and peppery   not on, the Charcoal Inn is the place to head to.
                                                                 Cumberland sausage comes with black pudding,   The must-order meal here is a double brat with
                                                                 mashed potatoes, broccoli, carrots, and gravy.   the works: two sausages in a bun with pickles,
                                                                                                    mustard, and raw onions, with butter oozing out on
                                                                                                    every side. As in Germany, the key to its great taste
                                                                 SOUTH AFRICA                       is the flavor of heavy spices unlocked by a smoky
                                                                 The South African boerewors, or “farmer’s   charcoal fire and superb traditional bread rolls with
                                                                 sausage,” is a spicy national signature dish.    thin, crispy crusts and soft centers.
                                                                 It’s made largely from beef seasoned with
                                                                 coriander and is always barbecued on a braai.   Milwaukee Brat House moderate
                                                                                                    1013 3rd St., Milwaukee;
                                                                 Wandie’s Place inexpensive         www.milwaukeebrathouse.com
                                                                 618 Makhalemele St., Dube, Soweto, Johannesburg;   Though it only opened in 2008, this sausage
                                                                 www.wandies.co.za                  specialist already has a cult following. Its late-19th-
                                                                 An unpretentious eatery with long tables, colorful   century brick town-house home, with stained glass,
                                                                 tablecloths, bustle, and sociable chatter that started   long dark-wood bar, and historic photos of
                                                                 life as a shebeen, or illicit bar. It now specializes in a   Milwaukee, is the perfect backdrop for great brats
                                                                 Soweto-style festive buffet including dishes such as   from Fred Usinger’s excellent butcher shop
                                                                 mutton curry, beef potjie (a stew), pap (a porridge),   opposite the bar.
                                                                 umqushu (corn and bean stew), ting (soft porridge),
                                                                 and of course boerewors, served both fresh from   Water Street Brewery moderate
                                                                 the barbecue and dried as wors.    1101 N Water St., Milwaukee;
                                                                                                    www.waterstreetbrewery.com
                                                                 Karoo Cattle and Land moderate     Milwaukee has the only baseball stadium in the US
                                                                 Irene Village Mall, Irene, Pretoria;    where bratwurst outsell hot dogs; many of its pubs
                                                                 www.karoocattleandland.com         and bars feature it too. This microbrewery, with its
                                                                 A great South African steakhouse that claims its   brick warehouse interiors, adds its own signature by
                                                                 boerewors would be the pride of any karoo tannie   simmering its bratwurst in beer and mixed spices
                                                                 (local elderly aunt), which seems at odds with the   prior to grilling.
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