Page 217 - DK Eyewitness Travel - Guides Ultimate Food Journeys
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STREET FOOD IN SOUTHEAST ASIA          215







            Left (top to bottom)  Morning fish   toppings on sale at the evening market,
            market, Hoi An, Vietnam; making roti    Luang Prabang, Laos; bak chor mee
            by hand in Penang, Malaysia; neon-lit   (pork on egg noodles with chili peppers
            Chinatown in Bangkok, Thailand    and vinegar) is served with a clear soup
            Below (top to bottom) Curries and   side-dish at Singapore’s hawker stands

                                                                 Little India Saturday Night Market  SINGAPORE
                                                                 Masjid Jamek LRT, Kuala Lumpur     Singapore is packed with street food, all of
                                                                 This bustling night market is the perfect place to try   it inspected, regulated, and controlled for a
                                                                 the Malay and Indian side of Malaysian street food.    degree of hygiene not seen elsewhere. Most of
                                                                 Don’t miss satay and apam balik, thick pancakes   Singapore’s 40,000 food stands are located
                                                                 with peanuts and corn.             inside “hawker centers.”

                                                                 SS2 Hawker Center                  Smith Street, Chinatown
                                                                 Petaling Jaya, Kuala Lumpur        Once a notorious red-light district, at night Smith
                                                                 The locals’ favorite group of food stands is out of    Street is now home to many hawker stands. Look
                                                                 town but well worth the taxi ride. The Hawker    out for char kway teow (wok-fried noodles) and
                                                                 Center has around 80 stands serving classics such    the sticky barbecued pork. Unusually for a food
                                                                 as grilled stingray and la la (clams). The center’s   stand, China La Mian Steamed Buns makes a very
                                                                 layout allows visitors to dine from as many stands as   delicious xiao long bao (juicy pork “small dragon”
                                                                 they wish and buy drinks from any of the many   dumplings). For dessert, hunt out some mochi, little
                                                                 people that ply the aisles selling beverages.  rice balls filled with crushed peanuts or sesame and
                                                                                                    served in pandan-leaf-flavored soup.
                                                                 LAOS                               Little India, Rochor
                                                                 While Laos cannot compete with its larger   Singapore’s ethnic makeup is similar to Malaysia’s
                                                                 neighbors for variety on the food front,    trinity of cultures, and this area showcases the best
                                                                 there is still plenty to titillate the taste    of the Indian contingent’s crafts and cuisine. The
                                                                 buds. The country’s food takes influences    food stands here feature skillfully made roti prata
                                                                 from all its neighbors, and the setting can   (sweet flatbread), huge dosai (rice pancakes), and
                                                                 often be breathtaking.             meals served on banana leaves.
                                                                 Luang Prabang                      Chinatown Complex Food Center
                                                                 The center of this city (a UNESCO World Heritage   Trengganu Street
                                                                 site) converts to a fabulous night market when   This is Singapore’s largest hawker center, with more
                                                                 evening falls. The air becomes thick with smoke, and   than 200 food stands. Favorites here include chicken
                                                                 banana leaves are piled high with delectable grilled   rice, fried Hokkien prawn mee (fried noodles with
                                                                 meats. Try the nem kao (stuffed rice pancakes) or   shrimp), and claypot rice (chicken, Chinese sausage,
                                                                 sticky rice with sai gok (local sausage).   and salted fish with crispy, lightly charred rice).


                                                  On the Menu                combine into the sweet-and-sour sauce    SINGAPORE
                                                                             of this well-known fried rice-noodle dish.   Char kway teow  Wide, flat, rice noodles
                                                  VIETNAM                    Som tam  A salad of crunchy green   (ho fun) stir-fried with meat, seafood, and
                                                  Banh cuon  Steamed and rolled-up   papaya topped with fermented freshwater  egg. The chefs deftly toss the ingredients
                                                  rice-flour pancakes filled with pork and   crab or jumbo shrimp, served with a lime   near the stove’s flame, imparting wok hei –
                                                  mushrooms, topped with fried shallots,   and fish-sauce dressing.  the essence of the wok – to the dish.
                                                  and eaten with a spicy dipping sauce.                 Chili crab  A delicious but messy,
                                                  Banh mi  French-style baguettes filled   MALAYSIA      chili-pepper-sauce-covered crab.
                                                  with meat and finished with pickled   Laksa  The most famous of Nonya   Claypot rice  A mix of marinated chicken,
                                                  vegetables, herbs, and fiery pepper sauce. (Chinese Malay) dishes bathes rice   waxed Chinese sausages, and salted
                                                  Goi cuon  A kind of Vietnamese spring   noodles, meat, seafood, and vegetables    fish cooked in a clay pot with rice over
                                                  roll: the rice paper roll holds pork, shrimp,   in either stock (asam laksa; see pp204–5)  charcoal, so the rice develops a crunchy
                                                  rice noodles, herbs, and seafood.  or spiced coconut milk (curry laksa).  base, similar to Persian chelo (see p178),
                                                                             Pan mee  Freshly rolled noodles served   and a smoky flavor.
                                                  THAILAND                   dry or in soup, topped with crisp fried   Roti prata  These flatbreads arrived with
                                                  Joke  Rice porridge, which is common   anchovies and minced pork, and finished   southern Indian immigrants. Soft dough is
                                                  throughout this part of the world; in   with a spoonful of chili pepper sauce.  deftly swung around the chef’s head until
                                                  Thailand it is eaten for breakfast with   Satay  Tender meat kebabs that are   it is paper-thin, then it is folded and fried
                                                  minced pork and a soft egg.  marinated before grilling and served    into crisp layers. These are also sold all
                                                  Pad thai  Tamarind and palm sugar   with a spice-rich dipping sauce.  over Malaysia under the name roti canai.
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