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DELI FOOD AROUND THE WORLD          267







            Left (top to bottom)  Grab an espresso   Below (top to bottom)  Air-dried hams
            and panini at New York’s Eataly, or sit   hang from the ceiling in every Italian
            down for a leisurely Italian feast; deli   neighborhood grocery store; smoked
            food Danish-style; Schwartz’s in   meats and sausages take center
            Montreal, famed for its portion sizes      stage in Bavarian Delikatessens

                                                                 Fairmount Bagel Bakery             BOLOGNA, ITALY
                                                                 inexpensive                        The region of Emilia-Romagna and its capital,
                                                                 74 ave Fairmount ouest; www.fairmountbagel.com  Bologna, are celebrated for their rich culinary
                                                                 Sink your teeth into one of Fairmount’s warm bagels,   traditions (see also pp146–7). Bologna’s
                                                                 made with unbleached flour, hand-rolled, and –   nickname is La Grassa (“the fat one”), and
                                                                 here’s the secret – baked in a wood-fired oven, and   the city’s delicatessens feature a bounty of
                                                                 you’ll understand why this is Montreal’s best bagelry.   cheeses, olives, and especially cured pork
                                                                 There are more than 20 varieties to choose from.   meats, from prosciutto to salami to mortadella.

                                                                 Wilensky’s Light Lunch             La Salumeria Bruno e Franco
                                                                 inexpensive                        inexpensive
                                                                 34 ave Fairmount ouest; (514) 271-0247  Via Oberdan 16; www.la-salumeria.it
                                                                 The frozen-in-time decor is as much a draw as the   Widely considered one of Bologna’s best delis,
                                                                 delicious bologna sausage and salami at this deli,   Bruno e Franco features traditional Italian fare,
                                                                 which hasn’t changed since 1932 – and that includes   including superb olive oils, fresh and cured meats,
                                                                 the grill and drinks machine. The prices, happily,    Modena balsamic vinegar, the regional reggiano
                                                                 also seem stuck in the past.       Parmesan cheese, jellies and preserves, and also
                                                                                                    excellent seafood salads, from octopus to shrimp.
                                                                 Reuben’s Deli moderate
                                                                 1116 rue Ste-Catherine ouest; www.reubensdeli.com  A.F. Tamburini moderate
                                                                 Taste your way through an array of smoked meats at   Via Caprarie 1; www.tamburini.com
                                                                 this amiable deli. For variety, Reuben’s also serves   Ham haunches and fat salami hang from the ceiling
                                                                 juicy steaks, Greek salads, and even cheesy lasagna.   and pungent cheeses fill the counter at this
                                                                 Enjoy a Canadian beer (or three) with your meal.  venerable delicatessen. Sit in the warm café where
                                                                                                    you can also order fresh tortellini topped with rich
                                                                 Schwartz’s moderate                Bolognese sauce, which got its name from the city.
                                                                 3895 boulevard St-Laurent;
                                                                 www.schwartzsdeli.com
                                                                                                    COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
                                                                 This Montreal institution serves colossal smoked-
                                                                 meat sandwiches, with brusque service thrown in   In Copenhagen, traditional delicatessen fare is
                                                                 as part of the package. Be prepared to wait (and   served in a variety of forms, perhaps most
                                                                 salivate) on weekends, when the line stretches out   famously as the country’s beloved open-face
                                                                 the door and down the sidewalk.    sandwiches, smørrebrød (see also pp106–7),
                                                                                                    which are heaped with everything from tangy
                                                                                                    herring and capers to roast pork.
                                                                 MUNICH, GERMANY
                                                                 The word “delicatessen” is derived from the   Hansens Gamle Familiehave
                                                                 German, although in Germany, delis are more   moderate
                                                                 like specialty food halls – emporiums selling   Pile Allé 10; www.hansenshave.dk
                                                                 delicacies and fine food, from herb-scented   Dig in to splendid smørrebrød at this historic outdoor
                                                                 sausages and caviar to exquisite tarts.  eatery (which has a sliding roof so that patrons can
                                                                                                    stay toasty in winter). Take your pick from thinly
                                                                 Feinkost Käfer moderate            sliced roast beef on dark rye, herring topped with
                                                                 Prinzregentenstrasse 73; www.feinkost-kaefer.de  a quivering egg, smoked eel, meatballs, and more.
                                                                 Gourmands flock to this upmarket delicatessen,   As for what to drink: Danish beer, of course.
                                                                 market, and restaurant, which is filled with local and
                                                                 international delicacies, including over 350 types of   Meyer’s Deli moderate
                                                                 cheeses, roast ham, smoked meats, walnut-studded   Gammel Kongevej 107; www.meyersdeli.dk
                                                                 bread, and their justly famous raspberry tart.  This popular deli and restaurant is helmed by chef
                                                                                                    and gastronomic entrepreneur Claus Meyer, an
                                                                 Dallmayr expensive                 enthusiastic proponent of locally sourced Nordic
                                                                 Dienerstrasse 14–15; www.dallmayr.com  cuisine. Enjoy a wide range of deli fare, including
                                                                 Enjoy everything from smoked sausages and    organic bread from the on-site bakery, grilled
                                                                 caviar to rich coffees, fragrant teas, and flaky    sausage with homemade ketchup, and salami
                                                                 pastries at this luxury delicatessen and restaurant   with fennel. If you’re here on a weekend, don’t
                                                                 that dates back to the 17th century.   miss the superb brunch.
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