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TREVISO ITALY     91


                                                                                                       The Best Places to
                                                                                                       Eat Tiramisu

                                                                                                       Ristorante Beccherie moderate
                                                                                                       A gastronomic institution, this historic restaurant
                                                                                                       opened its elegant doors to diners in 1939
                                                                                                       and the founder’s grandson and his wife are
                                                                                                       continuing the tradition as ideal hosts. Unless
                                                                                                       you have some knowledge of the local dialect,
                                                                                                       you’d never guess that these lovely premises
                                                                                                       were a butcher shop back in the 1700s. Alfresco
                                                                                                       dining is delightful in summer when the tables
                                                                                                       spill out into the traffic-free square, whereas in
                                                                                                       winter they’re moved back inside under dark
                                                                                                       timber beams. The service is both impeccable
                                                                                                       and friendly, with attention to details like warm
                                                                                                       plates and tasting portions of extra dishes.
                                                                                                       Tiramisu is just one dish that has made this
                                                                                                       restaurant so well known. Flat slices of the
                                                                                                       delicate dessert, its thin layers of mascarpone
                                                                                                       cream and sponge imbued with coffee and
                                                                                                       cocoa, are served year-round. The rest of
                                                                                                       the menu respects seasonal produce. Fall
                                                                                                       brings faraona al forno in salsa péarada –
                                                                                                       baked guinea fowl in a delicious sauce of liver
                                                                                                       and herbs. Flavorsome red radicchio stars in
                                                                                                       winter in delights such as a warming soup or
                                                                                                       crepes, then at warmer times of year there’s
                                                                                                       risi e bisi – risotto with fresh peas.
                                                                                                       Piazza Ancilotto, Treviso; open for lunch
                                                                                                       and dinner Tue–Sat, lunch only Sun;
                                                                                                       www.anticoristorantebeccherie.it
                                                                                                       Also in Treviso
                                                                                                       Run by a celebrated pastry chef, Pasticceria
                                                                                                       Andrea Zanin (+39 04 2254 0437;
                                                                                                       moderate) is a cake shop and café tucked
                                                                                                       down a narrow street near the main square.
                                                                                                       It is an ultra-modern haven for professionals
                                                                                                       and residents who pop in for a quick espresso
                                                                                                       and something sweet. Heavenly tiramisu is
                                                                                                       but one of the irresistible mini-portions lined
                                                                                                       up on the glass counter, a feast for the eyes
                                                                                                       as well as for the waistline.

                                                                                                       Also in Italy
                                                                                                       One of the oldest and most venerable cake
                                                                                                       shops in Venice, Pasticceria Rizzardini
                                                                                                       (+39 04 1522 3835; moderate) is a tiny
                                                                                                       standing-room-only establishment. It offers a
                                                                                                       tough choice: should you opt for an individual
                                                                                                       slice of luscious tiramisu, a freshly baked fruit
                                                                                                       tart, or a mini beignet with zabaglione with your
                                                                                                       cappuccino? The crunchy croccantini (peanut
                                                                                                       toffee) makes a perfect take-home gift.
                                                                                                       Around the World
                                                                                                       Run by a non-Italian brother and sister team,
                                                                                                       Sydney’s Alio (www.alio.com.au; expensive)
                                                                                                       serves Italian-inspired food made with the
                                                                                                       freshest produce and immaculate attention to
                                                                                                       detail. The almost classic tiramisu is enhanced
                                                        Above  Tiramisu – literally “pick-me-up” – is certainly an uplifting   by the addition of Marsala wine to the fluffy
                                                        dish, with a kick of coffee and sometimes liqueur  mascarpone mixture, giving a more pungent
                                                                                                       flavor, while scrumptious albeit bitterish grated
                                                        Left  Central Treviso is a maze of streets lined with arcaded
                                                                                                       chocolate is the finishing touch.
                                                        walkways and dotted with tiny osterias
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