Page 690 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - USA

688  C ALIFORNIA

the 1906 earthquake in an Place, also known as the “Street
Oriental Renaissance style. of Painted Balconies.” Watch for
In the 1830s and 1840s it was the Tin How Temple, which is
the main thoroughfare of Yerba brightly decorated with
Buena, the village that preceded hundreds of gold and red
San Francisco. A plaque at lanterns. Nearby, Ross Alley has
No. 823 marks the site of the the tiny Fortune Cookie Factory,
first dwelling, a canvas tent where visitors can see how the
that was built in 1835. famous San Francisco creation
To the east of Grant Avenue is is made. The alleys have many
the city’s original town square, old buildings as well as old-
Portsmouth Plaza, which was fashioned herbalist shops,
laid out in 1839. In 1846, displaying elk antlers, sea
marines raised the American horses, snake wine, and other
flag above the plaza, officially exotic wares. Numerous
seizing the port as part small restaurants, above
of the United States. and below street
Two years later, it was level, serve cheap
here that Sam Brannan and delicious food.
Oriental architecture along Grant Avenue, announced the The Chinese Historical
Chinatown discovery of gold in Society has a range
the Sierra Nevada of fascinating exhibits
6 Chinatown Mountains (see including a cere-
pp706–707). It soon Dragon’s Head at the monial dragon
Map F3. @ 1, 2, 3, 4, 15, 30, 45.
 all three lines go to Chinatown. became the hub of Chinese Historical Society costume and a “tiger
the new booming fork,” a triton that
An estimated 25,000 Chinese city in the 1850s. Today, was wielded in one of the battles
migrants settled in the plaza Portsmouth Plaza is the social during the reign of terror known
on Stockton Street during the hub of Chinatown. In the as the Tong Wars. The Tongs were
Gold Rush era of the 1850s morning, people practice tai rival Chinese clans who fought
(see pp641–2). Today, the district chi, and from noon to evening, over the control of gambling and
evokes the atmosphere of a gather to play cards. prostitution in the city in the
bustling southern Chinese town, Running parallel to Grant late 19th century. Other artifacts,
although the architecture and Avenue, Stockton Street is where documents, and photographs
customs are distinctly American locals shop. Boxes of the freshest illuminate the daily life of
hybrids on a Cantonese theme. vegetables, fish, and other Chinese immigrants in San
The sweatshops, laundries, and produce spill over onto crowded Francisco from the 1600s to the
cramped apartment buildings sidewalks. The Kong Chow present day. Among these is a
that once earned this area the Temple, located here, features yearbook written in Chinese.
nickname “Golden Ghetto” have fine Cantonese wood carvings.
been replaced with tidy shops Chinatown’s busy alleys, E Chinese Historical Society
and refurbished residential located between Grant Avenue 965 Clay St. Tel (415) 391-1188.
areas. Cable cars run down two and Stockton Street, echo with @ 1, 30, 45.  Powell St.
sides of the district. authentic sights and sounds of Open noon–5pm Tue–Fri,
The ornate Chinatown the Orient. The largest of the 11am–4pm Sat. Closed public hols.
Gateway, marking the southern four narrow lanes is Waverly ^ = ∑ chsa.org
entrance to Chinatown, was
designed by Clayton Lee as an Cable Cars
arch over the start of the main
tourist street, Grant Avenue. The cable car system was
The three-arched structure launched in 1873, with its
was inspired by the ceremonial inventor Andrew Hallidie riding
entrances of traditional in the first car. He was inspired
Chinese villages. It is capped to tackle the problem of
with green roof tiles and a transporting people up the
city’s steep slopes after seeing
host of propitiatory animals in an accident, where a horse- One of the city’s cable cars
glazed ceramic. drawn tram slipped down a hill.
Dragon lampposts, upturned His system was a success, and by 1889 cable cars were running
roofs, and stores selling on eight lines. Before the 1906 earthquake, over 600 cars were
everything from kites and in use. With the advent of the internal combustion engine,
cooking utensils to antiques, however, they became obsolete, and in 1947 attempts were
embroidered silks, and gems made to replace them with buses. After a huge public outcry,
line Grant Avenue. Most of the the present three lines were retained.
buildings were erected after
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp710–12 and pp713–15

688-689_EW_USA.indd 688 11/2/16 2:49 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm