Page 125 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 11: On the Trail of the Sun King 123

Left Fortified town of Bautzen Below Burg
Stolpen, rising above the town of Stolpen

EAT AND DRINK
Stolpen (open daily) for 49 years. winding streets with their original
Courtiers, fearing her influence over houses, the city walls, the curiously BAD SCHANDAU
the besotted ruler, had plotted to have crooked Reichenturm tower and the Elbterrasse moderate
the 36-year-old black-eyed beauty Baroque town hall in the town square, Housed in the Elbresidenz hotel, this
incarcerated in what was already a all form an attractive complex. Take a restaurant offers the best summer
decaying castle. She died here at the riverside path past fortifi cations to see terrace in the area, as well as classic
age of 84. Indeed, some say that the Slavic folk crafts and costumes in the Saxon cooking with dishes such as
countess still roams the castle – her Sorbisches Museum (open daily), loca- Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast).
Markt 1, 01814; 035022 91 90
ghost is said to haunt a dark cellar. ted beside the late-Gothic Schloss
ª Follow the one-way road from Ortenburg. The Dom St Petri’s AROUND BASTEI
Marktplatz to the T-junction, turn interior is curious – its nave bends to Landgasthaus zum Schwarzbachtal
left toward Dresden, then right after gain extra space on the square, and expensive
4 km (2 miles) on to the B6 to Bautzen. is divided and used by both Catholics The rustic ambience of this restaurant
belies the quality of the food that
Park in the multi-storey car park on and Protestants. A cathedral treasury chef Barbara Siebert prepares from
Lauengraben, 300 m (329 yards) (open Mon–Fri) is located behind in the freshest ingredients. Expect
across the river. the Baroque Bishopric. hand written menus of modern
German and regional dishes.
e Bautzen Niederdorfstrasse 3, 01848 Lohsdorf-
Hohnstein (10 km/6 miles east of Bastei);
Saxony; 02625 035975 803 45; www.schwarz
The view of tightly packed bachtal.de; closed Thu, Jan & Feb
medieval defence towers and BAUTZEN
spires seen on the drive across
the Spree river is the finest Mönchshof moderate
Wine in earthenware jugs, waiters in
introduction pos sible to the sackcloth and meaty recipes from
cultural capital of the Slavic 1560 make this medieval-themed
Sorbs, Germany’s only indige- inn very popular.
nous minority. Known mainly Burglehn 1, 02625; 03591 49 01 41;
for its top-security jail for poli- www.moenchshof.de
tical prisoners during the Wjelbik moderate
German Democratic Republic Traditional specialities such as ox fillet
era, today Bautzen enchants with horseradish sauce are served in this
Sorbian restaurant behind the Dom.
visitors with its beau tifully Kornstrasse 7, 02625; 03591 420 60;
reconstructed old town. The Nov–Mar: closed Sun dinner & Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS way to work up an appetite for lunch Mountains and valleys
Drivers can base themselves in in Pirna 8. Walk it off with a tour of From Bad Schandau 0, drive to the
Dresden to follow the cultural trail the monarch’s hunting lodge, Bastei q with a packed picnic to
left by Augustus the Strong, or Schloss Moritzburg 4, then go west enjoy breathtaking views of this
choose Bad Schandau to explore the to Meissen 3 to end the day with a landscape. Drive to Burg Stolpen w,
great outdoors of Saxon Switzerland. taste of local wines in a Weinstube. then head south to Pirna 8 for lunch
and window-shopping along the
Grace and grandeur Follow the driving instructions to Pirna. cobbled lanes of its Baroque grid.
In Dresden 5, visit the Zwinger Return to the dual carriageway and
and treasury, then drive to Schloss continue north to Radeburg, across the Follow the driving instructions to
Pillnitz 6 and Augustus’ beautiful A4 and then follow signs to Moritzburg. Stolpen, return via the road to Lohmen,
garden, Gross Sedlitz 7 – the ideal Follow instructions in reverse to Meissen. then continue to Pirna.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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