Page 131 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 12: In the Land of the Brothers Grimm 129

Left St Georg’s Dom in its lovely setting above
Lahn river Below Detail in the main hall of
the Kaiser Friedrich Therme, Wiesbaden

EAT AND DRINK

WIESBADEN
Ente expensive
The Werner Senger Haus 3 at No. 5, angles and on the left is the The Nassauer Hof’s gourmet restaurant
built in the 13th century, is one of Stadtkirche or parish church, built oozes class, from the understated ele-
the oldest in Limburg. With a lofty, around 1300. From Bischofsplatz gance of its ocean liner-like decor to
beamed hall on the ground floor, follow Barfüssergasse and Salzgasse the 1,800-bottle wine cellar and the
creative menu, which offers the likes of
typical of the Altstadt’s houses, it is through the bustling heart of the Scottish scallops with corn crème brûlée,
now a hotel and restau rant. Turn left Altstadt, stop ping to admire the green asparagus and coconut jelly.
into Römer 4, dominated by a beau- antiques and gift shops on the way Kaiser-Friedrich-Platz 3-4, 65183; 0611
tifully restored 13th-century Gothic to Fischmarkt 9. This contains the 13 36 66; www.nassauer-hof.de; closed
Hallenhaus. Archaeological most impressive concen- Sun & Mon
excava tion at the site of this tration of beautiful early- Kaefer’s expensive
hall house has unearthed the medieval houses in Limburg, There is a club-like atmosphere at this
remains of a Jewish ritual includ ing the Altes Rathaus, elegant bistro in the Kurhaus. The menu
blends German, French and other
bath or mikvah. Turn right at with its fine beamed hall and international influences and includes
the end of Römer and take lovely spiral stair case. The plenty of seafood.
the steps up to Domstrasse. old town hall now houses Kurhausplatz 1, 65189; 0611 53 62 00;
Cross the road to reach the municipal art collection www.kurhaus-gastronomie.de
Diözesanmuseum 5 (mid- (open during exhi bitions only). Other options
Mar–mid-Nov: closed Mon). Sculpture in Limburg Turn into Sackgasse to Wiesbaden’s traditional high temple
The museum’s collec tion an der Lahn’s reach the car park on the of cake and coffee is Café Maldaner
(Marktstrasse 34, 65183; 0611 30 52
of ecclesiastical trea sures old town corner with Grabenstrasse. 14), founded in 1859. Head to Fritz
includes the Staurothek, a ª Leave the city on Kunder (Wilhelmstrasse 12, 65185;
10th-cen tury Byzantine cross Eschhöfer Weg, following signs 0611 30 15 98) to sample Wiesbadener
reliquary. Leaving the museum, turn to Runkel. Ananastörtchen (refined bitter chocolate
right up Domstrasse on to the with a pineapple jelly filling).
Domplatz to visit the mag nifi cent red- 3 Runkel LIMBURG AN DER LAHN
and-white bulk of St Georg’s Dom 6. Hesse; 65594 Der kleine Prins moderate
The cathe dral was built in the early The Lahn Valley narrows and A cosy restaurant in the Nassauer
13th cen tury with the wealth accrued becomes steeper at Runkel, where Hof hotel, Der kleine Prins serves a
by Limburg’s mer chants in the the mighty Burg (Easter–Oct: closed seasonal menu of creative German
dishes and a selection of fine wines.
Crusades. Its archi tec ture is a blend of Mon) overlooks a 15th-century stone Eat outside on the terrace in summer.
Rhenish Romanesque and early bridge. The older, upper fortress was Brückengasse 1, 65549; 06431 99 60;
French Gothic. The interior has some left a ruin by Austrian troops during www.hotel-nassauerhof-limburg.de
early medieval frescoes. the Thirty Years’ War, while the
Return to the Domplatz and walk 13th-cen tury Unterburg, the lower
along the southern walls of the castle, contains a museum and is
cathedral to reach the Schloss 7. the seat of the Wied family. On the
Though built on a superb defensive opposite bank of the river stands
site high above the river, it is hard to another castle, Burg Schadeck.
imagine anything less for bidding than Known as the “swallows nest”, it
the castle’s pictur esque collection of was built as a result of a dispute
stone and half-timbered buildings within Runkel’s founding family.
grouped around a central courtyard. ª Leave Runkel on Borngasse
Return to Domplatz, turning left down following signs to Villmar and
the atmospheric Grosse Domtreppe, Aumenau. At Aumenau, turn left on to
the great cathedral steps, to reach Elkerhaüser Strasse, then follow route
Bischofsplatz 8. On the right, tall to Weilburg. Use the Parkdeck Rathaus
half-timbered houses lean at giddy close to the tourist office to park.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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