Page 145 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 13: Roman Ruins and Fine Wines 143

Landesmuseum 6 Left Porta Nigra, Roman gateway into Trier
(closed Mon), a Roman Below Entrance to Kaiserthermen, Trier
archae ology museum
with many beautifully CRUISING THE MOSEL
presented treasures, Mosel cruise operators include Mosel-
includ ing coins and Schiffs-Touristik (06531 82 22;
mosaics. A walk south www.moselpersonenschifffahrt.de),
through the pretty which operates out of Bernkastel-
gar dens leads to the Kues, and Personen-Schifffahrt
Kaiserthermen 7 (open Gebrüder Kolb (0651 266 66; www.
moselfahrplan.de), sailing from Trier.
daily), once the largest
baths in the Roman EAT AND DRINK IN TRIER
A block east of the Hauptmarkt lies world. Their foundations remain
Trier’s Romanesque Dom St Peter 3 intact, making it easy to visual ize the Weinstube Kesselstatt moderate
(open daily). Techni cally the oldest scale of this 4th-cen tury com plex. Enjoy regional dishes and wines in one
church in Germany, it was once a The scale also impres ses at Trier’s of the prettiest settings in Trier.
Liebfrauenstrasse 10, 54290; 0651 411
basilica, but since the late 3rd century Amphitheater 8 (open daily), a sign- 78; www.weinstube-kesselstatt.de
it has been a bishops’ seat. The current posted ten-min ute walk south east
building originated in the 11th cen- along Olewiger Strasse from the Zum Domstein moderate
Dishes with a regional twist, as well as
tury and contains a robe believed to under pass at the southeast corner of some inspired by old Roman recipes,
have been worn by Christ at his Kaiserthermen. This 20,000-capacity are served here.
crucifixion, though this has not arena was built for gladiatorial and Hauptmarkt 5, 54290; 0651 744 90;
been scientifically authenti ca ted. animal fights around AD 100, mak- www.domstein.de
Housed in the extravagant ing it Trier’s oldest Roman struc ture. Other options
Baroque Heilumskammer, the Return to the Kaiserthermen, Many restaurants in Trier have lively
robe has not been on display turn right along Weberbach, left wine bars in the basement. One such
is the Ratskeller zur Steipe moderate
since 1996. down Wechselstrasse, right again (Hauptmarkt 14, 54290; 0651 750 52;
North of the church, the on Neustrasse, then left on www.ratskeller-trier.de), which serves
Bischöfliches Dom und Viehmarktstrasse to arrive at local and Russian dishes.
Museum am Dom (closed Mon) the Viehmarktplatz. The glassy
is famed for an early cube in the centre protects the
4th-century Roman fres co Viehmarktthermen 9 (closed
removed from the palace that Mon), the smallest and oldest
once stood where the Dom of Trier’s Roman baths. From
does today. Turn left then Sculpture, Trier’s the opposite side of
right for a walk down Electoral Palace Viehmarktplatz, turn right
Liebfrauen strasse to the down Stresemannstrasse, then
Konstantinbasilika 4 (Nov–Mar: left down Brückenstrasse to Karl-
closed Mon, Apr–Oct: open daily). It Marx-Haus 0 (open daily) where
originally pro vided a throne hall for Marx was born and grew up in the
Emperor Constantine in the 4th cen- 19th cen tury. Now a museum, it
tury but later became a Protestant focuses on Marxian philo sophy.
church for the prince-electors who From here, turn left and walk along
resided in the Baroque Kurfürstliches Fleischstrasse to the Hauptmarkt.
Palais 5, or Electoral Palace next Return via Simeonstrasse to Porta
door. The for mal gardens beside Nigra and turn left along the alley
the palace lead to the Rheinisches to the Simeonstiftsplatz car park.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS plenty of motor-racing excitement and river to visit Bernkastel-Kues 7.
Trier is a good base along this drive. has an excellent visitor centre. Then Wine lovers should consider heading
Visitors can also consider stay ing in head to the fantasy castle, Burg Eltz 5. straight to the twin-town via a cruise
atmospheric Bernkastel-Kues. This from Trier 8 to sample the wines
tour can be covered along the From Trier, follow signs to Koblenz and
A1 motorway on a two-day trip drive north to the end of the A1. Follow without having to drive later.
from both these places. signs to Nürburgring. From Trier, follow signs to Koblenz,
Fantastic thrills Enchanting Mosel Valley but leave the A1 at exit 123 to take
Unmissable for those travelling with From Burg Eltz 5, drive to Cochem the signed route to Bad Bertrich, then
children, the Nürburgring 4 offers 6, then drive back along the Mosel head to Cochem.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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