Page 209 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
P. 209

DRIVE 19: The Southern Romantic Road  207
















                                                        Above left Scenic Schloss Hohenschwangau,
            “Mad” King Ludwig II  ª Exit Hohenschwangau and take   Hohenschwangau  Above right Landsberg am
        Bavaria’s famous monarch Ludwig II   Parkstrasse, turning left on to the    Lech from across the Lech river
        has become a revered figure since   B17 for Füssen. Park in one of the
        his drowning in the Starnberger See   underground car parks close to
        in 1886. Coming to the throne as a   the tourist office and the Altstadt.  HIKING IN THE PFAFFENWINKEL
        youth on the eve of Bavaria’s defeat
        and incorpo ra tion into the Prussian-  8 Füssen   The Pfaffenwinkel has three major
                                                        hiking trails – the Konig-Ludwig-Weg,
        led German Empire, he was denied                Lech-Hohenweg and the Pralatenweg
        real power; instead, he lived out his   Bavaria; 87629     – crisscrossing the district. There are
        absolutist fantasies in extra vagant   The Romantic Road ends at Füssen in   also 28 self-guided hikes that range
        building pro jects that threatened    an enchanting landscape of lakes and   from easy strolls to mountain hikes.
        to bankrupt the public purse. As a   mountains. The Altstadt is dominated   www.pfaffen-winkel.de
        result he was forced to step down   by the late-Gothic Hohes Schloss,
        shortly before his untimely – and
        some still say suspi cious – death, a   former summer palace of Augsburg’s   EAT AND DRINK
        few weeks before his 41st birthday.  bishops, which houses two art galler-
                               ies (Apr–Oct: closed Mon; Nov–Mar: open   SCHONGAU
                               Fri–Sun pm). The former Benedictine
       7 Hohenschwangau        monastery of Kloster St Mang    Schlossgasthof Zum Hechten
                                                        moderate
       Bavaria; 87645          (Apr–Oct: closed Mon; Nov–Mar: open   Dark wooden tables and historic
       Germany’s most famous castle sits in   Fri–Sun pm) has a series of Baroque   paintings provide an appropriate
       dreamy splendour on a forested crag   staterooms, while th e Heilig Geist   setting for hearty, traditional local fare
       above Hohenschwangau. Schloss   Spitalkirche, or Church of the Holy   such as Schweinshaxn (knuckle of ham).
       Neuschwanstein (open daily) was    Ghost, has a pretty painted façade.  Ritterstrasse 6, 87629; 08362 916 00;
                                                        www.hotel-hechten.com
       built for Ludwig II bet ween 1869 and
       1884. Guided tours take visitors    An Operatic Fantasy   FÜSSEN
       through the richly adorned Singer’s   Conceived by theatre designer   Gasthaus zum Schwanen
       and Throne Hall as well as the king’s   Christian Jank, Neuschwanstein is    moderate
       royal lodgings. The Neo-Gothic   the ultimate fan tasy castle, inspired   Housed in a beautiful old gabled
                                                        house close to Kloster Mang, this
       Schloss Hohenschwangau (open daily)   by the castles of the Age of Chivalry,   restaurant serves Schnitzel (pork
                                notably the Wartburg in Thuringia.
       in the valley below is where Ludwig   Ludwig II was the patron of the com-  fillet) alongside regional specialities
       spent much of his childhood. Enjoy    poser Richard Wagner, whose operas   from Swabia and the Allgäu, including
       a sum mer toboggan run (www.  provi ded inspi ra tion for the decor.   Maultaschen (Swabian ravioli) and
       tegelbergbahn.de) or a cable car ride    The Sängersaal, or Singers’ Hall, is   Kasspätzen (cheese-topped noodles)
                                                        with roast onion and salad.
       to the top of the the Tegelberg   mod  elled on the hall at Wartburg –   Am Brotmarkt 4, 87629; 08362 61 74;
       summit (www.tegelbergbahn.de) for   the scene of the singers’ con  test in   www.schwanen-fuessen.de; closed
       spectacular views.       Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser.   Mon & Tue
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       Stop at Landsberg am Lech 3    Hohenschwangau 7 to explore its
        Augsburg is a good base for exploring   to visit its Baroque town hall.   royal castles, which stand amid
        the northern section of the route, while      superb Alpine sce nery.
        Schongau and Füssen are excellent   Head east to Friedberg along the
        for discover ing the southern part.  B2, then south along the B300/B17    Head south to Rottenbuch on the B23.
                               to Landsberg am Lech.   At Achen, the Steingadner Strasse
        Historic towns                                bran ches off to Wildsteig. Look out for
        Explore historic Augsburg 1 before   Scenic and architectural paradise   brown sign s to the Wieskirche. Bear left
        heading to Friedberg 2 to admire   Stroll through Schongau’s 4    at Steingaden on to the B17 and follow
        the beautiful Herrgottsruh church.   old town, then head to   signs to the castles.
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40


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