Page 37 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
P. 37

DRIVE 1: Dramatic North Sea Coast  35


                               ª From Jork, continue driving to   Left Half-timbered houses along the Alter
                               Borstel, then turn left to Grunendeich.   Hafen, Stade  Below Moorlands covered in
                               Follow Mittelnkirchen to Steinkirchen   heather, Lüneburger Heide
                               and carry on to Hollern. Follow the river
                               and take Altländer Strasse to Stade.
                               4 Stade
                               Lower Saxony; 21680
                               A medieval Hanseatic town located
                               to the west of Hamburg, Stade has   EAT AND DRINK
                               retained most of its characteristic half-
                               timbered buildings, the most attractive   LÜNEBURG
       scenery and quaint houses set   of which can be found along the old   Elrado-House moderate
       among trees is a reminder of its   harbour, Alter Hafen. Located in a   Situated in the heart of Lüneburg,
       bucolic past. Not far from here    gra nary built during the time of the   off the market square, this homely
                                                        steakhouse is the ideal place at which
       is the Wilseder Berg, the highest   Swedish occupation in the 17th    to dine after a walking tour. Enjoy
       point of the moraine region,    cen tury, Schwedenspeicher   -  good food in a friendly, rustic setting.
       which offers a panoramic view    Museum (closed Mon) houses   Am Markt 4, 21335; 04131 39 04 03;
       of the countryside.      exhibits on the history of the town.   www.elrado-house.de
       ª From Undeloh, head to     Nearby, a building at Am   Mama Rosa moderate
       Handeloh. Continue on       Wasser West 7 displays the   This Italian restaurant is both a trattoria
       Handeloher Strasse to Welle.   Kaufmann Collection (closed   and a gourmet food-and-wine store.
                                                        Visitors can enjoy a light breakfast in
       Turn right on to the B3 and   Mon), com prising works of   the morning, lunch in the sun and
       cross the A1. Continue on this   artists from Worpswede    drink a cappuccino in the afternoon
       road, then turn left on to the   (see p38). Other attrac tions   or a glass of wine in the evening with
       B73 and pass Neukloster     are the Bürgermeister-   Italian antipasto and a selection of
       Hedendorf. Turn right on    Hintze-Haus at Am Wasser   home-made pasta dishes.
                                                        Bei der Abtsmühle 1, 21335; 04131 30
       Jorker Strasse to Jork.      West 23 and the Rathaus,   83 07; www.mama-rosa-lueneburg.de
                                     both of which date from
       3 Altes Land       Baroque portal,   the 17th century. Stade   Röhms Deli expensive
                                                        The menu at this well-known gourmet
       Hamburg; 21635     Rathaus, Stade  also has its share of grand   bistro changes daily and is testament
       The flat floodplains of the   churches such as the 14th-   to the creative ideas of its Michelin-
       Altes Land along the banks of    century Gothic St Wilhadi (closed Sun)   starred chef.
       the lower Elbe teem with cherry    and the 17th-century St Cosmas und   Heiligengeiststrasse 30, 21335; 04131
       and apple orchards. The area is   Damian (closed Sun).   241 60; www.roehmsdeli.de; closed
                                                        Sun & Mon
       particularly lovely between April    ª Take the B74 and continue past
       and May, when the trees are in   Elm. Turn right on to the B71 to   ALTES LAND
       bloom and the whole country side   Bremervörde passing Heerstedt to   Die Mühle Jork expensive
       turns into an ocean of white and   reach the A27. Cross the A27 to get    The chefs at this upmarket restaurant
       pink. In the midst of these natural   on to Weserstrasse to reach Bremen’s   offer culinary twists, such as pork fillets
                                                        with pear, and red wine and butter
       surround ings, charming red-brick   deep-water harbour, Bremerhaven.    ice cream. The home-made cakes and
       houses with thatched                             pies are a treat.
       roofs and deco rated                             Am Elbdeich 1, 21635 Jork-Borstel;
       gables await the visitor.                        04162 63 95; closed Mon, Tue & Jan
       There are a number of                            STADE
       villages to be discov ered,                      Barbarossa expensive
       such as Neuenfelde,                              This cosy restaurant in an old town
       Borstel, Steinkirchen,                           house is located next to the harbour, so
       Hollern and Jork, with                           the seafood, such as freshly harvested
       many Baroque churches                            oysters from Sylt Island, is delicious. The
                                                        cuisine is excellent, as are the wines.
       that are worth visiting.                         Salzstrasse 25, 21682; 04141 28 84;
       The unofficial capital                           www.barbarossa-stade.de; closed Sun
       of the Altes Land, Jork                          Knechthausen expensive
       offers some delightful                           Savour home-made pasta, antipasto,
       restau rants. Neuenfelde                         meat and fish dishes and delightful
       attracts visitors with                           desserts in the Knechthausen’s peaceful
       its pretty rose gardens;                         ambience. It has a superb wine
       another draw is the                              selection, too.
                                                        Bungenstrasse 20–22, 21682;
       hist oric windmill of                            04141 453 00; www.restaurant-
       Hollern-Twielenfleth.                            knechthausen.de; closed Sun
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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