Page 47 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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DRIVE 2: Wonders of Schleswig-Holstein  45


       once the home of Thomas Mann. It
       now houses a museum dedi cated to
       the Mann fam ily. Next, turn right on
       to Breite Strasse to the 13th-century
       Rathaus 6 (open Mon–Sat, guided
       tours), Germany’s most famous brick
       town hall. Return along Breite Strasse
       to the 15th-cen tury Jakobikirche 7,
       a Baroque church on the right. Turn
       right into Koberg, then left into
       Grosse Burgstrasse to the Burgtor 8,             Above left Tranquil shore of the island
       an ancient gate that bears testimony   ª Take the A1 to Ratekau and then   of Fehmarn  Above right Cycling on a
       to the town’s historic forti fi cations.   past Neustadt to take the B501 to   narrow road in Fehmarn
       Return to Grosse Burgstrasse to the   Heiligenhafen. Then turn on to the
       Heiligen-Geist-Hospital 9, a Gothic   B207 to Fehmarn.  BIKING IN FEHMARN
       brick building, notorious for its spiky          Bikes can be rented at Conny’s
       towers. Continue into Königstrasse,    Thomas Mann   (Breite Strasse 46; 04371 13 03;
       turn left on to Mühlenstrasse, then   Thomas Mann, one of Germany’s   www.fehmarn-fahrrad.de). Visitors can
       right on to Dankwartsgrube, and left   most influential writers, was   also get maps at the tourist office
       again into Pferdemarkt for the Herz-  awarded the Nobel Prize for lit era ture   (Sudstrand-Promenade 1;
       Jesu-Kirche 0, on the right. This   for his works Buddenbrooks and Der   www.fehmarn.de).
       19th-cen tury church houses a   Zauberberg (The Magic Mountain)
                                in 1929. An anti-fascist, Mann
       memorial to four clergymen who   emigrated to Switzer land in 1933
       were executed dur ing the Third Reich   and to the US in 1939. Dis owned    EAT AND DRINK
       for resisting the Nazi regime. Across   by his country, he became the   RATZEBURG
       the parade square stands the Dom q   leading voice of Exilliteratur, the
       (open daily), built in the 12th and    exiled German lit era ture that was   Der Seehof moderate
                                                        This charming family-owned restaurant
       13th century. High lights include a   outlawed by the Nazi regime.   and hotel offers international and
       triumphal cross sculp ted from an oak            regional dishes.
       tree. Get on to St Annen-Strasse to   5 Fehmarn   Lüneburger Damm 1–3, 23909; 04541
       visit Kunsthalle St-Annen w, or    Schleswig-Holstein; 23769     86 01 01; www.der-seehof.de
       St Anne’s Museum (open daily), which   This Baltic Coast island is renowned for   LÜBECK
       is housed in an Augustinian con vent.   its serene beaches, pristine land scape   Schiffergesellschaft expensive
       Return to Kohlmarkt, turning left on   and some 2,200 hours of sun per year.   Located in a beautiful historic building,
       Holsten strasse for the car park.   The best way to explore Fehmarn is on   this popular rest aurant serves great
                                        foot or a bike. Visitors   beer and seafood. Book in advance.
                    Hansahafen
                    A N   D E R   U N T E R T R A V E
        0 metres  300           Burgtor  can also relax at one of   Breitestrasse 2, 23552; 0451 767 76;
                                                        www.schiffergesellschaft.com
                                        several well ness spas
        0 yards  300  ENGELSGRUBE   KOBERG GROSSE  BURGSTRASSE  KANALSTRASSE    (www.inselwellness-  Wullenwever expensive
                                                        One of the best restaurants in
                                        fehmarn.de) or play golf
                                   Klughafen
                                                        town, the Wullenwever serves local
                                        on one of the prettiest
                                                        cuisine, with Mediterranean and
                              KLEINE GRÕPELGRUBE
                       Jakobikirche
                                        Germany. The big gest
                                                        Beckergrube 71, 23552; 0451 70 43 33;
                               Heiligen-
                            KÖNIGSTRASSE
        WILLY BRANDT ALLEE  Holstenhaven   FISCHERGRUBE  Buddenbrookhaus GLOCKENGIES SERSTR   golf courses in   maritime influences.
                               Geist-
                          BREITE STR
                                                        www.wullenwever.de; closed Sun & Mon
                               Hospital
                                        village is Burg auf
                                        Fehmarn, home to the
                                                        FEHMARN
                   BECKERGRUBE
             Schabbelhaus
                                        St Nikolai Kirche, or
                                    LANGER LOHBERG
                   SCHLÜSSELBUDEN  Marienkirche  HUNDESTRASSE   St Nikolai church.    Housed in a historic building from the
                                                        Aalkate Lemkenhafen moderate
               MENGSTR          MENGSTR
                                                        18th century, this restaurant offers eel
                                        To the south west of
               ALFSTR       DR. JULIUS LEBER STRASSE    the island stands the   specialities. These and other fish are
          Stadt-Trave
          Holstentor  Rathaus BREITE STR   KÖNIGSTRASSE  FLEISCHHAUERSTRASSE   37-m (121-ft) tall   smoked according to old local recipes
                                                        and best enjoyed with a North German
                                        light house Flügge
              HOLSTENSTR  KOHLMARKT
                                                        Königstrasse 20, 23769; 04372 532;
               Petrikirche  HUXSTR      that offers panoramic   draught beer.
              GR. PETERSGRUBE   WAHMSTR  views of the island.   www.aalkate-original-fehmarn.de;
                MARLESGRUBE
           WALLSTR   DEPENAU   AEGIDIENSTR   KRÄHENSTR   ª Take the B207 then   closed Jan & Feb
                                        the A1 to Oldenburg.
                                                        Restaurant Altes Zollhaus moderate
                DANKWARTSGRUBE   PFERDEMARKT   PARADE   MÜHLENSTR   Turn on to the B202    A simple restaurant serving typical
              Herz-Jesu-  ST ANNEN STR  WEBERSTR
                Kirche  FEGEFEUER  Kunsthalle  to Lütjenburg then    regional seafood dishes, often featuring
                HARTENGRUBE   St-Annen  the B430 to the    freshly caught fish.
        P O S S E H L S T R
                         MUNSTER BAHN   town of Plön, in   Westermarkelsdof 11, 23769; 04372 99
                     DOMKIRCHHOF
                      Dom                               16 35; www.zollhaus-fehmarn.de; closed
              AN DER OBERTRAVE
                                        Holsteinische Schweiz.   Sun & Mon
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
   044-045_175705_BR_GER.indd   45                                      18/07/16   12:29 pm
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