Page 56 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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54 BACK ROADS GERMANY


                               5 Rügen
                               Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 18556, 18546, 18609
                               Two centuries of tourism have not marred the appeal of Germany’s largest
                               island (926 sq km/357 sq miles). Whether exploring its rural villages, relaxing
                               in beach resorts in belle époque villas, riding a vintage steam train or strolling
                               along chalk cliffs, Rügen’s appeal is timeless and simple.
                               1 Putbus                     The Rasender Roland
                               Putbus’s Markt, with its Neo-Classical   The Rasender Roland (open daily;
                               theatre and smart Circus, would not   www.ruegensche-baederbahn.de), or
                               look out of place in a city. In this large   Racing Roland, is a steam-powered
                               village, however, it appears almost   narrow-gauge railway that plies on
                               aristocratic. Prince Wilhelm Malte I   Rügen and provides an enjoyable
                               had hoped to create a Prussian St   change from travelling by car. The
                               Tropez when he unsuccessfully plan-  steam locomotives whistle out of
                               ned the village as a health spa in 1809.   Putbus station north ward through
                               Unfortunately, his castle was blown   the fields at 30 kph (19 mph), pause
                               up with dynamite in the 1960s – the   at Jagdschloss Granitz and Binz en
                               story goes that a local mayor wanted   route before terminating an hour
                               to impress East Germany’s Communist   later in Göhren in east Rügen.
                               rulers – although the orangery and
                               park remain, as does the colonnaded   to Königsstuhl, or opt for a pleasant
                               Badehaus, or bathhouse, which lies    3-km (2-mile) stroll.
                               2 km (1 mile) away, near Lauterbach.
                               From here, it is possible to take a boat   3 Königsstuhl
                               trip to the Vilm Island Nature Reserve.  A lovely road from Sassnitz cuts
                               ª Drive through Putbus towards the   through the Nationalpark Jasmund,
                               seaside town of Binz. Beyond Nistelitz   a landscape of spacious beech
                               village, turn left at the T-junction, then   woods that cover white chalk sea
                               turn right to reach the Jagdschloss   cliffs. Romantic artist Caspar David
                               Granitz car park.       Friedrich (1774–1840) immortalized
       Top Viewpoint on a cliff in the Nationalpark    the scenery in his etchings and oils,
       Jasmund, Rügen  Above Neo-Classical   2 Jagdschloss Granitz  so popularizing the Königsstuhl (open
       hunting castle, Jagdschloss Granitz  A Neo-Classical hunting castle of   daily) that in 1865 Kasier Wilhelm I
                               Prince Wilhelm Malte I, Jagdschloss   himself inspected the chalk bluff
        BOAT TRIPS             Granitz (May–Sep: open daily; Oct–Apr:   with his daughter Princess Viktoria.
                               closed Mon) crowns the Tempelburg   Königsstuhl literally means “king’s
       Reederei Hiddensee (www.reederei-
       hiddensee.de), Adler Schiffe (www.  Hill, the highest point in east Rügen.   stool”, a name derived from the tradi-
       adler-schiffe.de) and Weisse Flotte   Climb up the castle’s 38-m (125-ft)   tion that Rügen’s early rulers followed
       (www.weisse-flotte.de) ferries ply along   high tower for a sweeping panorama   to prove them  selves worthy by climb-
       the north coast from May–Oct.   of the Baltic Sea. An apocryphal tale   ing the 118-m (388-ft) high cliff. For a
                               explains this curiosity as
        VISITING RÜGEN         the prince’s ruse to settle   Kap Arkona  0 kilometers  12
                               a land dispute – Swedish   Putgarten
       Tourist Information                                       0 miles    12
       Alleestrasse 35, 18581 Putbus; 038301   rulers agreed he could   Dranske  Wiek  Altenkirchen
       431; Heinrich-Heine-Strasse 7, 18509   own whatever he saw   Tromper Wiek
       Binz; 038393 14 81 48   from his castle.              Glowe  Lohme  Königsstuhl
                                 Spread along the   Vitt      Grosser Jasmund Hagen
                               coast beyond, Binz,   Neuendorf Trent  Rappin  Jasmunder  Sassnitz
        WHERE TO STAY IN RÜGEN                                Bodden
                               Rügen’s premier seaside   Schaprode  Kluis
       Panorama Hotel Lohme moderate  resort, is renowed for    Gingst
       This small hotel on a cliff has classic   its ornate villas and    Kubitzer  Bergen  Binz
       modern decor and great sea views.     fine beach.  Bodden  Rüg en  Zirkow  Jagdschloss
       An der Steilküste 8, 18551 Lohme    ª Head through Binz    Prohn  Samtens  Granitz
       (2 km/1 mile north of Königsstuhl car     Altefähr   Putbus  Nistelitz
       park); 038302 91 10; www.lohme.com   to Sassnitz to take the   Lauterbach  Göhren
                               B96 to the Nationalpark       Garz
       Cerês expensive         Jasmund and the      Stralsund  Poseritz  Greifswalder
                                                                 Bodden
       This five-star hotel brings metropolitan              Zudar     Thiessow
       style to the traditional seafront.    Königsstuhl car park in
       Strandpromenade 24, 18509; 038393   Hagen village. Visitors   Zarrendorf  Reinberg
       666 70; www.ceres-hotel.de  can either take the bus
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150
   054-055_175705_BR_GER.indd   54                                      25/07/16   2:08 pm
  Back Roads         LAYERS PRINTED:
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  Date 24th March 2009
  Size 145mm x 217mm
  Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
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