Page 65 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 4: Land of a Thousand Lakes 63

Swedish Heads ª Take Dr-Leber-Strasse, then join the
Wismar’s unofficial mascots, these B106 to Schwerin. Follow signs for Am
brightly painted moustachioed fig- Schloss car park opposite the palace.
ures have lions’ heads for hats. One
bust is in the Markt, two more are 2 Schwerin
near the mouth of the old port, all
replicas of two “Swedish Heads” that Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 19053
stood at the harbour mouth during Picturesquely situated amidst several
the Swedish occupation. One theory lakes, the state capital’s main attrac-
behind the name suggests that the tion is hard to miss. The ducal Schloss,
original busts came from an 18th- bristling with towers and topped with
cen tury Swedish merchant ship.
a gilded turret like a crown, looks like
something out of Cinderella. Duke Paul
con struction tech niques. A little Friedrich Franz II’s inspira tion for the
further, on Vor dem Fürstenhof, is reno vation of his dynastic resi dence
the Fürstenhof 3. An Italian-style came from the Loire’s Chambord
palace for the dukes of Mecklenburg, Chateau. The palace’s show rooms Above View of Wismar’s old town and
this Mannerist building has terra cotta (open daily) revel in ances tral pomp. canal Below Ducal Schloss, on an island on
friezes that retell the stories of the Across the palace foot bridge is the Lake Schwerin
Trojan Wars and the Prodigal Son. state museum, Staatliches Museum
Further down this road stands (closed Mon). Highlights include
St Georgen Kirche 4, the largest 17th-century Flemish art and works EAT AND DRINK
church in Wismar. The Grosse Hohe by Rembrandt. After the visit, enjoy
Strasse leading north wards from a cruise (www.weisseflotteschwerin.de) WISMAR
the church portal threads down on the Schweriner See. Reuterhaus moderate
to the cobbled Lübsche Strasse, ª Drive around the lake to follow signs This former Renaissance hall of a wine
once a mer cantile thorough fare. to Ludwigslust, then to the B321. In merchant is located behind the town
On its junction with Neustadt is the Zippendorf, park at Am Strand. hall and serves gutsy Mecklenburg
dishes such as green kale and bacon
Heiligen-Geist-Kirche 5 (open daily), or Rippenbraten (pork stuffed with fruit).
a fine exam ple of a hospital church. 3 Zippendorf and Muess Hinter dem Rathaus 3, 23966; 03841
Take Neustadt from beside the Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 19063 222 30; www.weinberg-wismar.de
church and continue down it to cross About 3 km (2 miles) from Schwerin’s SCHWERIN
the Grube – Germany’s first urban city centre, the lakeside suburb of
canal, dug in the mid-1200s – and Zippendorf is a great place to relax Die Orangerie moderate
Palm leaves and wicker seats highlight
to get to the ring road and the Alter on the beach or stroll around the lake. the interiors of Die Orangerie, which
Hafen 6. The port may look familiar About 2 km (1 mile) from here lies serves Mediterranean light lunches
to film buffs, as it was fea tured in the another suburb, Muess. Its open-air and sumptuous coffee and cake.
classic silent movie Nosferatu (1922). museum, Freilichtmuseum (mid-Apr– Schwerin Schloss, Lennéstrasse 1, 19053;
Opposite is the Wassertor 7, the Oct: closed Mon), pro vides a glimpse 03855 25 29 15; closed Nov–Mar
last of the gateways in the town’s of rustic Mecklenburg. Weinhaus Woehler expensive
medi eval fortifications. Return to the ª Continue west on the B321 past Named after the wine trader who
Grube and follow it eastwards to Crivitz and turn left to Goldberg. Get opened a cellar here in 1819, this fine
the Nikolaikirche 8. This bulky late- on to the B192 to Dobbertin, turn right restaurant serves a good selection
of fish and meat dishes. The house
Gothic basilica was once the church to Güstrow and follow signs to Zentrum. speciality is Sauerfleisch (pickled meat).
of medieval sea farers and, despite Turn left on to Wallensteinstrasse to Puschkinstrasse 26, 19055; 0385
its size, managed to survive World park near the Schloss. 55830; www.weinhaus-woehler.de
War II’s air raids. View glazed friezes
on its façade before marvelling at
the 37-m (121-ft) high interior with
orig i nal frescoes. Continue alongside
the Grube and then cross it on
Schweinsbrücke or “pig bridge”.
Here stands the Schabbellhaus 9,
a Dutch Renaissance mansion whose
museum (closed Mon) con tains
one of the ori ginal “Swedish Heads”
among many paintings and curios.
Continue south wards on ABC-Strasse
to reach the Markt, then take
Dankwarstrasse and Grünestrasse
back to the car park on Papenstrasse.

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