Page 73 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
P. 73
DRIVE 5: History and Revolutions Along the Elbe 71
the lateGothic St Stephanskirche, 1209, vastly enlarging an earlier
com pleted at the end of the 15th cen monastery church founded by Otto I
tury. The church was built by Charles in 926. Look out for the emperor’s
IV, King of Bohemia, who used the tomb, sculptor Ernst Barlach’s
town as his second royal resi dence contemplative 1929 memorial to
after Prague. Behind the church are the dead of World War I and the
the remains of his castle, which sculpture of the Magdeburger Virgins
was destroyed in 1640 by a Swedish (1240), illustrating the Parable of the
campaign in the Thirty Years’ War. Ten Virgins. In contrast, the most
ª Turn left to Lüderitz on to the celebrated new building is the
B189, which becomes the B71 in Grüne Zitadelle (tours: daily). With
Magdeburg. Follow signs to Zentrum, its playful curves and colours, this
then the Dom to reach the Domplatz apartment complex, designed by
for on-street parking. Austrian architect Friedensreich
Hundertwasser, is a key landmark. Above Striking Grüne Zitadelle complex,
Friedensreich Hundertwasser ª Turn right along Ernst-Reuter-Allee Magdeburg Below Elegant Meisterhäuser,
The Grüne Zitadelle in Magdeburg and continue on the Brückstrasse, the masters’ houses, Bauhausgebäude
was the last work of Austrian archi which becomes the B1, on to the B184.
tect and designer Friedensreich In Dessau, turn right on Rosslauer Allee, EAT AND DRINK
Hundertwasser (1928–2000). Inspired then right on to Antoinettenstrasse,
by Antonio Gaudí and Gustav Klimt, which becomes Puschkinallee, then HAVELBERG
Hundertwasser is famed for his left on Gropiusallee to the car park.
rejection of straight lines in favour La Dolce Vita moderate
of unruly shapes, bright colours 5 Bauhausgebäude This restaurant offers superb town
views from its terrace and serves
and chaotic designs. Fascinated Italian dishes and delicious ice cream.
by spirals, he called straight lines Saxony-Anhalt; 06846 Domplatz 2, 39539; 039387 20 83 40;
“the devil’s tools”. Built in 1925, the Bauhaus School www.cucina-italia.de
in Dessau continues to be a design
school. The work of architect Walter TANGERMÜNDE
4 Magdeburg Gropius, this white concrete building Alte Brauerei moderate
Saxony-Anhalt; 39104 is famed for the Bauhaus logo beside The food here is good, with various
Established as a trading post by its car park and the innovative balco salads, steaks and fish dishes on offer.
Charlemagne in the 9th century, nies at the back of the building. Its Lange Strasse 34, 39590; 039322 441 45
Magdeburg became the main small museum, Ausstellung im MAGDEBURG
residence of Emperor Otto I in the Bauhaus (open Mon–Fri), has displays Le Frog moderate
10th century. The town was brutally showcasing the application of A popular brasserie in the town’s main
sacked in 1631 by Catholic imperial Bauhaus theory to many areas of art park, Stadtpark, Le Frog’s beer garden
forces, while World War II levelled and design. The front desk also sells often hosts live music. The menu
most of it. However, Magdeburg tickets to the other Bauhaus attrac includes local game, wild mushrooms
and good salads.
is not without reminders of its tions: the Meisterhäuser (masters’ Heinrich-Heine-Platz 1, 39104;
glorious past. The most impressive houses) and the Törten, a 1920s proto 0391 531 35 56; www.lefrog-
is the Gothic Dom St Mauritius type housing estate, 7 km (4 miles) magdeburg.de
und St Katharina (open daily), with southeast of central Dessau. Petriförder moderate
distinctive octagonal turrets and ª Go back to Puschkinallee, turn right A large, riverside restaurant with an
spires. Its construction began in and follow the street to the T-junction extensive international menu that
with Friedrichstrasse. Turn left then includes standard Italian options.
Petriförder 1, 39104; 0391 597 96 00
right on to Kavalierstrasse. Turn left to
Vockerode, and at the T-junction turn Die Saison expensive
left to Wörlitz. Turn left on Seespitze The restaurant of the Herrenkrug
Parkhotel serves the best food in
and follow signs to the car park. Magdeburg. Gourmet treats include
red mullet fillet and prawns on mussel
Bauhaus risotto and broccoli rabe, as well as
The Bauhaus movement was begun a variety of delicious desserts.
Herrenkrug 3, 39114; 0391 850 80
in 1918 by painter Max Pechstein to
utilize art for revo lutionary purposes. AROUND BAUHAUSGEBÄUDE
One of its members, architect Walter Kornhaus moderate
Gropius, founded the design school Housed in an elegant Bauhaus
at Weimar, though it later moved to building, this restaurant serves
Dessau. At odds with the Nazis German and Mediterranean cuisine.
during World War II, many members Kornhausstrasse 146, Dessau, 39104;
went into exile in the US. 0340 65 01 99 63; www.kornhaus-
dessau.de
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
070-071_175705_BR_GER.indd 71 18/07/16 12:14 pm
