Page 176 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest
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174      BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA

       A Three-Hour Walk around Óbuda

       At first glance Óbuda today seems little more than a concrete
       jungle of tower blocks and flyovers. Behind the grey façade,
       however, there is a strong local identity and clues to the area’s
       long and colourful past abound. Arriving here in AD 89, the
       Romans built a garrison in this district shortly before founding
       the civilian town of Aquincum (see pp166–7) to the north.
       After the depar ture of the Romans in the 5th century AD,
       successive waves of invaders, including the Magyars (see pp24–5)
       all left their mark on Óbuda (literally “Old Buda”). By the end
       of the 16th century, Óbuda was a thriving market town,
       eventually forming part of the city of Budapest in 1873.

                           Old Óbuda Synagogue
                           to Flórián Tér      1 A section of Óbuda’s
                           From the amphitheatre,   impressive Roman amphitheatre
                           continue along Pacsirtamező út
                                                                           HERKULES  U.
                           and turn down Perc utca left    the popular novelist, bon   MEGGYFA
                           up Mókus utca and Jós utca,   viveur and local character,   UTCA  e
                           turning left into Lajos utca.    Gyula Krúdy once lived 4.
                           At No. 163 is the Óbuda   Writing in the early 20th
                           Synagogue 2. Built in the    century, much of Krúdy’s   SZÉL  UTCA
       0 The elegant, Neo-Baroque Fő tér Palace   early 1820s to serve the area’s   work looks back at an   S Z E N T E N D R EI   Ú T
       with its sentry box   growing Jewish commu nity,    idealized rural Hungary
                           this is a Neo-Classical building   and is extremely popular
       The Roman Amphitheatre  with a six-columned portico.    in his country. This now   VIHAR         UTCA  RAKTÁR U.
       Begin the walk at the corner of   The synagogue once served    houses the Hungarian
       Bécsi út and Pacsirtamező út,   as a television studio, but in   Museum of Trade and
       which is dominated by the   2010 Hungarian Television   Tourism. The museum’s   KERÉK  U.
       remains of a very fine Roman   handed over the building to the   collection includes   SZÉL  UTCA  LAKTANYA  UTCA
       amphitheatre 1. The Romans   Jewish community and it once   tools, scales   MIKLÓS U.  GRÓF ESZTERHÁZY JÁNOS
       arrived in the region soon after   again became a functioning
       the time of Christ, building this   synagogue. Some restoration                  w
       impressive amphitheatre in the   work has already taken place,   VÖRÖSVÁRI ÚT  VŐRŐSKERESZT U.
       middle of the 2nd century AD,   but the building requires further       KORHÁZ  U.
       by which time Aquincum was   renovation. Also on Lajos utca,   TESZÁRSZ K. U.  SOLYMÁR U.  0 q
       the thriving capital of the   at No. 168, is Óbuda Parish   SZÕLÕ U.          FŐ  9
                                                                                     TÉR
       province of Lower Pannonia    Church 3. Constructed in             7     TAVASZ UTCA
       (see pp22–3). Originally used by   1744–9 on the site of the Roman   FÖLD U.  FLÓRIÁN    8
       the Roman soldiers from the   military camp, the church has         TÉR        SZENTLÉLEK
       nearby garrison, it became a   survived since then largely           6           TÉR    Árpád híd
       fortress in the 9th century for   unchanged. The interior   SAN MARCO U.  KÁLVIN KŐZ    5  TANULÓ U.
       the invading Mag yar army. Not   includes a magnifi cently carved   KISCELLI U.  4    Árpád híd
       much remains of its once huge   pulpit showing the Good                     ÓBUDAI
                                                                                    UTCA 3
       walls, but the scale of the   Shepherd and Mary Magdalene.   ZÁPOR U.   KIS KORONA U.
       theatre, which was designed to   Turning left up Óbudai utca,    KENYERES U.
       seat 14,000, is still awe inspiring.   you will pass the house where        UTCA  2
                                                                                  MÓKUS U.
                                                                                    JÓS
                                                            SELMECI U.  SZÕLÕ U.  PERC U.  LAJOS U.
                                                                          PACSIRTAMEZŐ UTCA
                                                          SZOMOLNOK U.  BESZTERCE U.
                                                                   TÍMÁR U.  TÍMÁR U.  SLACHTA MARGIT RAKPART
                                                                                Tímár u.
                                                                   VIADOR U.
                                                          BÉCSI ÚT
                                                                           LAJOS U.
                                                                      1
       4 The former home of novelist and colourful local figure, Gyula Krúdy




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