Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest
P. 9

HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE      7

       Budapest Area Map
       The coloured areas shown on this map   Budapest Area by Area
       (see inside front cover) are the six main
       sightseeing areas used in this guide.             KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY  H U N G Á R IA     K Ö R ÚT
       Each is covered in a full chapter in   Margit híd
                                                   Around Parliament
       Budapest Area by Area (pp70–171).    North of the    M AR GI T K ÖR ÚT NORTH OF  AROUND  TER É Z  KÖRÚT  AND RÁS S Y  Ú T  T HÖKÖ LY   ÚT
                                                    Pages 108–123
                                               SZENT ISTVÁN KRT
                                 Castle District
                                         THE CASTLE
       They are highlighted on other maps   Pages 100–107  DISTRICT  PARLIAMENT  BAJC SY-Z SI LI N SZ K Y   Ú T  VÁROSLIGET
                                                       AROUND
                                               BÁTHORY U.
       throughout the book. In Budapest at    DISTRICT  B EM  RA KPA RT  D a n u b e   ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R.  AN D R ÁSS Y  Ú T  ER ZS ÉB ET KÖR ÚT  T H Ö K Ö LY  ÚT
                                         CASTLE
       a Glance, for example, they help you   Széchenyi lánchíd  JÓZSEF ATTILA U.  CENTRAL PEST  RÁK Ó CZ I    Ú T
       locate the top sights. They are also   KR I SZ T INA  KÖ R ÚT AT T I L A ÚT  JANE HANING R.  RÁKÓ C ZI   ÚT
       used to help you find the position    H E G YAL J A  Ú T  Erzsébet híd  J ÓZ SE F K ÖR ÚT
       of the three walks (pp172–9).  Castle District  GELLÉRT HILL  VÁMHÁZ KRT  Ü L LŐI   Ú T B A R OSS U .
                                  Pages 72–89
                                           AND TABÁN
                                               BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT  Around Városliget
                                                             Pages 144–155
                                                        Central Pest
                                                       Pages 124–143
                                  0 metres  500
                                  0 yards  500  Gellért Hill and Tabán
                                       Pages 90–99
 Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section
                                             Detailed information
      76      BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA  C ASTLE  DISTRIC T      77
                                          3on each sight
                 graphs and sheet music is   a beautiful peasant girl, Ilonka,
                 housed in wing F of the Royal   who falls in love with him. This
                 Palace, built in 1890–1902 by   representation shows King
                 Alajos Hauszmann and Miklós   Mátyás disguised as a hunter,   All the important sights in Budapest are
                 Ybl (see p123). Previously, the   standing proudly with his kill.
                 library was part of the Hungarian   He is accompanied by his chief
                 National Museum (see pp134–7).  hunter and several hunting   described individually. They are listed in
                   Among the library’s most   dogs in the central part of the
                 precious treasures are 35 pieces   fountain. Beneath the left­hand
                 from the Bibliotheca Corviniana,   columns sits Galeotto Marzio, an
                 a collection of ancient books   Italian court poet, and the figure   order following the numbering on the
                 and manuscripts that originally   of the young Ilonka is beneath
                 belonged to King Mátyás   the columns on the right.
                 Corvinus (see pp26–7). Also of     In keeping with the romantic
                 importance are the earliest   reputation of King Mátyás, a   area map at the start of the section.
                 surviving records in the   new tradition has grown up
                 Hungarian language, dating   concerning this statue. The
                 from the early 13th century.  be lief is that anyone wishing to   The western elevation of the Neo-Classical Sándor Palace
                   The library was established    revisit Budapest should throw   Practical information includes a map
      Renaissance majolica floor from the 15th century, uncovered during excavations on Castle   by Count Ferenc Széchényi in   some coins into the fountain    The house at No. 3 was built   when it was severely damaged
      Hill and displayed at the Budapest History Museum  1802. He endowed it with 15,000   to ensure their safe return.  between 1743–8, by József   in World War II. The building has
      1 Budapest History   On the first floor, the permanent   books and 2,000 manu scripts.   Giessl. This two­floor Baroque   been completely restored, and   reference, opening hours, telephone
                             palace was the home of the
                                  it is now the official residence of
                 The collection now comprises
      Museum    exhibition “Budapest – Light    nine million items. The library   4 Hungarian   Batthyány family until 1945.   the President of Hungary.
      Budapesti Történeti Múzeum  and Shadow: The 1,000­year   runs events and exhibitions that   National Gallery   Although the building has
            History of a Capital” leads
                 draw on its rich collection.
                             been frequently remodelled,
      Szent György tér 2. Map 3 C1 (9 B4).   visitors through the millennium    See pp78–81.  the façade remains intact.  7 Court Theatre    numbers and admission charges. The key
      Tel (06 1) 487 88 00. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116,   that formed the Hungarian     A few houses on Parade   of Buda
      178. v 56. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–   capital, from the Roman   Square incorporate medieval   Várszínház
      6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm   settlement of Aquincum    remains. Such houses can be   to the symbols used is on the back flap.
      Tue–Sun. & 7 ∑ btm.hu  (see pp166–7) to the political   seen at Nos. 4–5 and No. 11,   Színház utca 1–3. Map 1 C5 (9 A3).
                                  @ 16, 16A, 116. Closed for renovation.
      Since the unification of Budapest  change in 1989 (see p36).  built by Venerio Ceresola. The
      in 1873, historic artifacts relating   former has seat niches dating   An unlikely assortment of
      to Hungary’s capital have    from the 13th century.  institutions have stood on
      been collected. Many are    2 National   this site. The church of St John
      now on show at the Budapest   Széchényi Library   the Evangelist, founded by
      History Museum.  Országos Széchényi Könyvtár  6 Sándor Palace   King Béla IV, stood here in the
        During the rebuilding that   Szent György tér 6. Map 3 C1 (9 B4).   Sándor Palota  13th century. This church was
      followed the destruction suffered   Tel (06 1) 224 37 00. @ 5, 16, 16A,   Szent György tér 1–3. Map 1 C5 (9 A3).   then used as a mosque under
      in World War II, chambers    116, 178. v 56. Open 9am–8pm   @ 16, 16A, 116. Closed to the public.   Ottoman rule, and in 1686 it
      dating from the Middle Ages   Tue–Sat. ∑ oszk.hu  Crest on the Lion Gate in a courtyard    ∑ keh.hu  was demolished by the   Façades of important buildings
      were uncovered in the south   at the Royal Palace  Christian armies that retook
      wing (wing E) of the Royal   A magnificent collection of   By the top of the cog­wheel   the city. In 1725 the Carmelite
      Palace. They provide an insight   books, manuscripts, maps,   3 Mátyás Fountain   railway stands the grand Neo­  order built a Baroque church    are often shown to help you
      into the character of a much   engravings, posters, photo­  Mátyás Kút  Classical mansion, Sándor   in its place and this building
      earlier castle within today’s   Royal Palace. Map 1 C5 (9 B3).    Palace. It was commissioned in   was first converted into a
      Habsburg reconstruction.  @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 56.   1806 by Count Vincent Sándor   theatre in 1786, during the    recognize them quickly.
        These chambers, including a   from architects Mihály Pollack   reign of Emperor Joseph II.
      tiny prison cell and a chapel,   The ornate fountain in the   Batthyány Palace on Parade Square retains   and Johann Aman.  Farkas Kempelen, a famous
      were recreated in the basement   northwest courtyard of the   its original Baroque façade    The bas­reliefs that decorate   Hung arian designer added a
      of the palace. They now house   Royal Palace (situated between   the palace are the work of   Rococo façade and seats for
      an exhibition, the Royal Palace   wings A and C) was designed   5 Parade Square    Richárd Török, Miklós Melocco   1,200 spectators. The first plays
      in Medieval Buda, which dis­  by Alajos Stróbl in 1904. The   Dísz Tér  and Tamás Körössényi. The   were in German and it was not
      plays authentic weapons, seals,   statue is dedicated to the great   Map 1 B5 (9 A3). @ 16, 16A, 116.  decoration on the western ele­  until 1790 that any work was
      tiles and other early artifacts.  Renaissance king, Mátyás, about   vation depicts Greek gods on   staged in Hungarian. Beethoven’s
        On the ground and first floors   whom there are many popular   Parade Square is named after the   Mount Olympus. The southern   concert of 1800 is com­
      of the museum, exhibits trace   legends and fables.  military parades that were held   elevation shows Count Sándor   memorated by a plaque.  Numbers refer to each sight’s
      the history of Buda Castle from     The Romantic design of the   here in the 19th century. At the   being knighted and the north­    The building was damaged in
      1686 to the present. Also on the   bronze sculptures takes its   northern end of the square is the   ern elevation features a 1934   World War II and restored in 1978,
      ground floor are Gothic Statues   theme from a 19th­century   Honvéd Monument, built in 1893   sculpture of Saint George by   after which it regularly hosted
      from the Royal Palace and a   ballad by the poet Mihály   by György Zala. It honours and   Zsigmond Kisfaludi Stróbl.  performances by the National   position on the area map and
      tapestry with the Hungarian­  Vörösmarty. According to the   commemorates those who died     Sándor Palace functioned    Dance Theatre. The theatre is
      Angevin coat­of­arms dating   Corvinian illuminated manuscript in the   tale, King Mátyás, while on a   during the recapture of Buda from   as the prime minister’s official   currently closed due to
      from the 14th and 15th centuries.  National Széchényi Library  hunting expedition, meets    Austria in the 1848 revolution.  residence from 1867 to 1944,   extensive renovation work.  its place in the chapter.
       Practical information provides everything
       you need to know to visit each sight. Map
       references pinpoint the sight’s location on
       the Street Finder maps (pp242–53).  86      BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA  C ASTLE  DISTRIC T      87
                                q Mátyás Church       . Tomb of King Béla III and Anne   VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
                                                      de Châtillon
                                Mátyás-templom        The remains of this royal couple were   Practical Information
                                                      transferred from Székesfehérvár
                                The Parish Church of Our Lady Mary was    Cathedral to Mátyás Church in 1860.   Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 B4.
                                                            Tel (06 1) 355 56 57. Open 9am–
                                built on this site between the 13th and 15th   They lie beneath an ornamental stone   5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun (times
                                                      canopy in the Trinity Chapel.
                                centuries. Some of the existing architectural   vary). 7 8 & Museum:
                                style dates from the reign of Sigismund of   Open same hours as the church.
                                Luxembourg, but its name refers to King   Transport
                                Mátyás Corvinus, who greatly enlarged and   @ 16, 16A, 116.
                                embellished the church. Much of the original
                                detail was lost when the Turks converted the   Rose Window  Pulpit
                                church into the Great Mosque in 1541. After   Frigyes Schulek faithfully repro duced   The richly decorated
                                                             pulpit includes the carved
                                        the medieval stained-glass window
          Budapest’s major sights   the liberation of Buda in 1686, Jesuit fathers   that was in this position during the   stone figures of the four
                                modified the building in the Baroque style. The
                                                             Fathers of the Church and
                                        early Gothic era.
 82      BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA  C ASTLE  DISTRIC T      83  church sustained more damage in 1723, and   the four Evangelists.
                                was restored in the Neo-Gothic style by Frigyes
 Street-by-Street: the Old Town  q . Mátyás Church  NORTH OF THE  4Historic buildings are dissected   Schulek in 1873–96. The gallery rooms house
                                the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art.
 Although with much earlier   CASTLE DISTRICT
 Buda’s old town has been a barometer of Hungary’s   parts, this church is mainly
 changing fortunes. It developed, to the north of the Royal   a Neo-Gothic reconstruction   CASTLE   to reveal their interiors;   Béla Tower
 dating from 1874–96.
 Palace, from the 13th century. Under kings such as   A pictur esque vestibule on    DISTRICT  This tower is named after the
 Sigismund, it flourished, and wealthy German merchants set   the church’s southern façade   church’s founder, King Béla IV.
                                      It has retained several of its
 up shops in Lords’ Street (Úri utca) to supply the court. The   covers an original Gothic   GELLÉRT HILL   museums and galleries have   original Gothic features.
 area was later destroyed by the Turks and again by their   portal dating from the    AND TABÁN
 14th century.
 evictors, the Holy League army formed of European   t Mihály Táncsics Street  Locator Map
 Christians. It was rebuilt after World War II, but genuine   During the Middle Ages, this street   See Street Finder, maps 1 & 9  colour-coded floorplans to help
 relics can be hunted out in its cobbled streets and squares.  was inhabited by Jews. A museum
 at No. 26, on the site of an old
 synagogue, displays finds such                           Stained-Glass Windows
 as tombstones.  you find important exhibits.             Three arched windows on
                                                          the south elevation have
                                                          They were design ed by
                                                          Frigyes Schulek, Bertalan
 This statue of St                                        19th-century stained glass.
 Stephen, or István, the                                  Székely and Károly Lotz.
 first crowned king of
 B É CSI     Hungary (see pp24–5), was   w Fishermen’s Bastion  . Baroque Madonna
 K APU     erected in 1906. Its   Designed by Frigyes Schulek   According to legend, the original statue
 T É R  in 1895, this fantastical
 pedestal includes a bas-  structure never had    was set into a wall of the church during   . Mary Portal
 relief showing scenes   the role of a defensive   the Turkish occupa tion. When this wall   This depiction of the Assumption of
 from the king’s life.  building, despite its   was destroyed in 1686, the Madonna   the Blessed Virgin Mary is the most
 name. It serves instead         made a miraculous appearance. The Turks   magnificent example of Gothic stone
                                  took this as an omen of defeat.
 as a viewing terrace.                                      carving in Hungary. Frigyes Schulek
 The conical towers                                         reconstructed the portal
 The State Archive of Historic   F O R T U N A     U T C A  T Á N C S I C S   M   U T C A  are an allusion to the    from fragments.
 Documents, located in a Neo-  tribal tents of the
 Romanesque building, houses   early Magyars.
 items that were transferred to   Ú R I   U T C A  1370 Church   1476 Wedding of King   1686 After liberation   Holy figures on
 Buda in 1785 from the former                      construction   Mátyás to Beatrice of Aragon  of Buda, Jesuits   the pulpit
 capital of Hungary, Bratislava.  O R S Z Á G H Á Z   U T C A  Main Portal  works started    (aka Beatrice of Naples)   converted the church
 9 Holy Trinity Square                Above the arched    under the reign   1541 Turks   in Baroque style  2004–2014 Full
                                                  of Anjou Louis
                                                       convert church
                                                               reconstruction
 In 1713, after overcoming            west entrance is a   the Great  into a mosque  of the building
 an epidemic of the plague,           19th-century bas-relief   KEY  1250  1350  1450  1550  1650  1750  1850  1950  2050
 a column represent ing the   Stars indicate the   of the Madonna and
 Holy Trinity was raised in           Child, seated between   1  The roof is decorated with   1309 Coronation    1526 Cathedral   1896 Frigyes Schulek completes
                                                      burnt in the first
                                                   of the Angevin
 this square.                         two angels. The relief    multicoloured glazed tiles.  king Charles Robert  attack by Turks  the recon struction of the church
                 features no visitor   is made of pyrogranite   2 The main altar was created    1255 Church originally   1470 Mátyás Tower   1945 Church is severely damaged by   1970 Final details are
                                                          in the Neo-Gothic style
                                      ceramics produced in
                                                              completed in post-war
                                                      is completed after
                                                  founded by King Béla IV
                                          by Frigyes Schulek and based on
                                      factory (see p58).
 Defensive walls    should miss.      Pécs at the Zsolnay   Gothic triptychs.  after the Mongol invasion  its collapse in 1384  German and Russian armies  rebuilding programme
 0 metres  50
 0 yards  50
                                         A timeline      The visitors’
 i Church of St Mary Magdalene         charts the key    checklist provides
 T Á R N O K   U T C A
 The reconstructed Baroque tower is all that   a . Lords’ Street
 remains of the 13th-century Church of St   Once the homes of
 Mary Magdalene, where Emperor Francis I   aristocrats and mer-  8 Golden Eagle    events in the   all the practical
 was crowned King of Hungary in 1792.  chants, the houses on    Pharmacy Museum
 Úri utca have medi eval   From the 18th century
 Key  foundations. Many have   a pharmacy called
 peaceful courtyards.
 traded in this medieval
 Suggested route  Gothic details and   “Under the Golden Eagle”   history of the   information needed
 house, now a museum.
                                          building.      to plan your visit.
   006-007_EW_Budapest.indd   7                             15/09/16   10:30 am
   4   5   6   7   8   9   10   11   12   13   14