Page 151 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina

THE P A MP AS  149

closely to traditional methods
and classic designs of gaucho
silverware, but also incorpo rate
subtle modern twists. Visitors
can watch the making of a
range of items including spurs,
belt buckles, belts, and stirrups.
The in­house museum has two
exhibition areas devo ted to
visual art either inspired by, or
directly related to, gaucho
themes. Over 180 pieces are
on display at any time. Guides
explain the history of gaucho
Pulpería La Blanqueada at Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes silver ware and the accessories
that a cowboy wears.
3 San Antonio de this museum complex, which
Areco opened in 1938, comprises Estancia El Ombú
several open­air and enclosed 5 miles (8 km) NW of San Antonio de
Road map C3. 70 miles (115 km) exhibition spaces. One of the Areco. Tel (02326) 492­080. & 7
NW of Buenos Aires. * 23,000. @ best known is the Pulpería La ∑ estanciaelombu.com
_ Día de la Tradición (weekend
nearest to Nov 12). ∑ sanantonio Blanqueada, a tavern that The ombú tree used to be
deareco.com; caminopampa.com featured in Güiraldes’s Don known as the “lighthouse of the
Segundo Sombra. The museum pampas,” because it was often
For a town increasingly is mostly dedi cated to the the only shade gauchos could
promoted as a tourist author, though it also find when crossing endless
destination, San Antonio de exhibits paintings by several grass lands. It is a fitting
Areco has retained almost all Argentinian and Uruguayan name for a welcoming
of its charm and authen ticity. artists. The building itself, estancia that offers guests
Colonial houses line the leafy with its colonial tiles, trellis home made food, guided
roads and working cowboys windows, and patios horse rides, and even a
wear tradi tional bombachas bowered with palm round of golf. The
(baggy trousers) and necker­ trees, is a pleasant place beautiful main house
chiefs. The town also has to visit. Silver stirrups, Taller y was built in 1880 for
excellent restaurants and is Museo de Platería de General Ricchieri,
close to some of Argentina’s E Taller de Platería Patricio Draghi whose Italian
most exclusive estancias. de Patricio Draghi heri tage helped
San Antonio de Areco owes Lavalle 387. Tel (02326) 454­219. determine the style of the pink­
much of its fame to the writer Open 10am–12:30pm, 3:30–7pm colored, vine­clad palazzo. The
Ricardo Güiraldes (see p37). His daily. & 8 ^ = park is stunning, dotted with
1926 master piece, Don Segundo José Draghi is a local silversmith century­old oak trees, araucarias,
Sombra, is set in the area and its with an interna tional reputation. eucalyptus, and, of course,
eponymous gaucho prota go nist His work shop and museum are ombús. The ranch also has a
is famous in Argentinian housed in a 19th­century Neo­ collection of old weaponry.
literature. Güiraldes’s family Classical Italianate man sion. The
ranch, La Porteña, is nearby. pieces that Draghi, his sons Estancia La Bamba
Pleasantly quiet for most of Patricio and Mariano, and his 8 miles (13 km) NW of San Antonio
the year, the town comes alive team manu facture adhere de Areco. Tel (02326) 454­895. & 7
in November for the Día de la ∑ labambadeareco.com
Tradición, a boisterous festival Owned by the Aldao family for
of country dancing and several generations, La Bamba
equestrian stunts cele brating is perfect for a taste of
gaucho traditions. traditional gaucho life. Sepia­
soaked family photographs line
E Museo Gauchesco the walls and the rooms are
Ricardo Güiraldes filled with antique French
Caminar Güiraldes s/n. Tel (02326) furnishings. There is a recon­
455­839. Open 10am–5pm daily. structed pulpería (small grocery
Closed Dec 23–25 & Dec 30–Jan 1. store), and estancia activities
& 8 3:30pm Mon–Fri, 12:30pm such as horse riding are
& 3:30pm Sat, Sun. 7 ∑ sanan available. La Bamba is also
toniodeareco.com famous for being the backdrop
Across a bridge over Río Areco at Silversmiths working at the Taller de for the legendary Argentinian
the north ern edge of the town, Platería de Patricio Draghi movie Camila (1984).
Cattle grazing on rich pasture near San Antonio de Areco

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