Page 250 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Australia
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248   QUEENSLAND

       9Rockhampton

       * 61,000. £ @ @ n Capricorn
       Info. Centre, Gladstone Rd (07)
       4927 2055 or 1800 676 701.
       Rockhampton is situated 40 km
       (25 miles) inland, on the banks
       of the Fitzroy River. Often referred
       to as the “beef capital” of Australia,
       the town is also the administrative
       and commercial heart of central
       Queensland. A spire marks the   Sandstone cliff looking out over Blackdown Tableland National Park
       fact that, geographically, the
       Tropic of Capricorn runs   Environs     0Blackdown
       through the town.   The heritage township of Mount   Tableland National
        Rockhampton was founded   Morgan is 38 km (25 miles)   Park
       in 1854 and contains many   southwest of Rockhampton.
       restored 19th-century buildings.   A 2 sq km (0.5 sq mile) open-cut   Off Capricorn Hwy, via Dingo. Park
       Quay Street flanks the tree-lined   mine of first gold, then copper,   Ranger Tel (07) 4986 1964. 7
       river and has been classified in   operated here for 100 years   ∑ npsr.qld.gov.au/parks/
       its entirety by the National Trust.   and was an important part of   blackdown-tableland
       Particularly outstanding is   the state’s economy
       the sandstone Customs     until the minerals   Between Rockhampton and
       House. The beautiful      ran out in 1981.  Emerald, along a 20-km (12-mile)
       Botanic Gardens            Some 25 km   untarmacked detour off the
       were established in      (15 miles) north of   Capricorn Highway, is Blackdown
       1869, and have a fine     Rockhampton is   Tableland National Park. A
       collection of tropical   Plaque at base of the   Mount Etna National   dramatic sandstone plateau that
       plants. There is also on-  Tropic of Capricorn spire Park, containing   rises 600 m (2,000 ft) above the
       site accommodation.       spectacular limestone   flat surrounding countryside,
        Built on an ancient tribal   caves, discovered in the 1880s.   the Tableland offers spectacular
       meeting ground, the Aboriginal  These are open to the public via   views, escarpments, open forest
       Dreamtime Cultural Centre is   Olsen’s Capricorn Caverns and   and tumbling waterfalls. Wildlife
       owned and operated by local   Camoo Caves. A major feature   includes gliders, brushtail
       Aboriginals. Imaginative displays   of the caves is “cave coral” –   possums, rock wallabies and
       give an insight into their life   stone-encrusted tree roots that   the occasional dingo.
       and culture.        have forced their way through   Emerald is a coal mining
                           the rock. The endangered ghost   centre and the hub of the
       Y Botanic Gardens   bat, Australia’s only carnivorous   central highland region, 75 km
       Spencer St. Tel (07) 4932 9000.   bat, nests in these caves.  (45 miles) west of the park; the
       Open 6am–6pm daily. 7  The stunning sandy   town provides a railhead for the
       E Aboriginal Dreamtime   beaches of Yeppoon and Emu   surrounding agricultural areas.
       Cultural Centre     Park are only 40 km (25 miles)   Its ornate 1900 railway station
       Bruce Hwy. Tel (07) 4936 1655.   northeast of the city. Rock-  is one of the few survivors of
       Open 9am–3:30pm Mon–Fri.   hampton is also the access   a series of fires that occurred
       Closed public hols. & 8  point for Great Keppel Island   between 1936 and 1969, which
       ∑ dreamtimecentre.com.au  (see pp220–21).  destroyed much of the town’s
                                               heritage. About 60 km (37
                                               miles) southwest of Emerald
                                               is Cullin-la-ringo, where there
                                               are headstones marking the
                                               mass grave of 19 European
                                               settlers killed in 1861 by local
                                               Aboriginals. At Comet is a tree
                                               carved with the initials of
                                               explorer Ludwig Leichhardt
                                               during his 1844 expedition to
                                               Port Essington (see p253).
                                                 More in tune with its name,
                                               Emerald is also the access point
                                               for the largest sapphire fields in
                                               the world. The lifestyle of the
                                               gem diggers is fascinating,
       Façade of Customs House on Quay Street, Rockhampton  making it a popular tourist area.
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp486–8 and pp514–15
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