Page 129 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Mrauk u and around The DelTa anD wesTern MyanMar 127
On the western side of the complex, the government Archeological Museum has a
mediocre collection of assorted finds from around the site, plus some artefacts from the
previous Arakanese capital of Waithali (see p.132) just down the road.
Haridaung Paya

On a small, steep hill just north of the Palace area, the tiny Haridaung Paya is little
more than a simple gold-painted stupa but offers one of Mrauk U’s finest views, with
dozens of stupas crowning the hills all around and glimpses of water between the trees. 2
It’s not signed: look out for the white steps (which can get appallingly hot under bare
feet) next to the road, from where it’s a few minutes’ walk to the top.
Market
Mrauk U’s little tree-studded market is an appropriately rustic affair, with the usual
stalls full of fruit, vegetables and herbs alongside piles of traditional Rakhine-style
pointed bamboo hats, heaps of chinlone balls, anchors, enormous saws and a
surprising quantity of pharmacies, including one alleyway stuffed entirely with little
shops selling either pills or beer. The west side of the market is where you’ll find the
town’s tailors, lined up at a row of tables behind heaps of cloth and old-fashioned
sewing machines.

Northern group
Mrauk U’s Northern group of temples is the undoubted highlight of the ancient city,
centred on the landmark Shittaung and Htukkanthein temples. Both are classic
examples of the city’s unique style of fortified temple, set upon impregnably high bases
with thick, almost windowless walls. The design offers an apt reflection of medieval
Arakan’s turbulent history, during which the city was attacked on numerous occasions
– the temples themselves possibly served as refuges for the embattled population. Later
and more decorative monuments such as the nearby Ratanapon and Laung Bwann
Brauk offer a notable contrast in style.

Shittaung Paya
• Entry covered by main temple ticket
The usual starting point for tours of Mrauk U is the landmark Shittaung Paya, built
by the founder of Mrauk U, King Minbin, in 1535 to celebrate his reconquest of
“the twelve towns of the Ganges” (roughly half of modern Bangladesh) – the name
refers to the 80,000 (shittaung) images said to be housed here. The temple is set on
a huge fortified terrace and surrounded by numerous small stupas in Mrauk U’s
distinctive style, topped not by the usual spire but with a truncated finial vaguely
resembling a stone mushroom. Some faint reliefs can also be seen in places around
the outer walls (including a couple of vaguely erotic scenes on the southern side).
Unfortunately the exterior is now a complete mess following the addition of a
modern prayer hall and stairway in the mid-twentieth century, and in 2003
(following the discovery of cracks in the main stupa) the Archeology Department
decided to encase the temple’s upper terrace in eyesore concrete in order to stop
water leaking into the temple below.

The Shittaung Pillar
At the bottom of the steps up to the temple stands the Shittaung Pillar (set inside
in a green barred shelter), with inscriptions in badly eroded Sanskrit recording the
genealogy of the Arakan kings. The three sides (the fourth is blank) are thought to
have each been carved two hundred years apart, in the sixth, eighth and tenth
centuries respectively.

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