Page 135 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Mrauk u and around The DelTa anD wesTern MyanMar 133
Much of the former city has now fallen into ruin, although you can still make out the
remains of a few temples and fragments of the city’s brick walls and the palace within.
The main attraction is the Great Waithali Payagyi, a huge seated Buddha image more
than 5m tall and said to be made from a single piece of stone. One of Myanmar’s oldest
Buddhas, it was (according to legend) a gift of the chief queen of King Maha Taing
Candra, who founded the city in 327 AD – although the original features have been
altered somewhat by modern restorations.
Dhanyawadi 2

Around 40km northwest of Mrauk U are the remains of the first of Arakan’s four
capitals, DHANYAWADI. As at Waithali, the ruins of the old city are fragmentary
and the site is best known nowadays as the original home of the enormously
revered Mahamuni Buddha statue (see p.289). Ancient Arakanese chronicles claim,
perhaps a little ambitiously, that the Buddha himself visited the city in 554 BC,
during which a statue – the Mahamuni – was made. Worshipped for centuries by
Rakhine’s monarchs, the statue was regarded as a symbol and protector of the
country – although it couldn’t prevent the sack of Mrauk U in 1784, after which
the Mahamuni was carried off by King Bodawpaya to Mandalay, where it
remains to this day.
The modernized temple in which the image was once housed survives, however,
along with three ancient Buddhas which still attract many worshippers, particularly
the 1.5m-high central image, known as “Mahamuni’s Brother”. There’s also a small
museum here, with some fragments of stone carvings and inscriptions found
around the site.
arrIVal anD DeParTUre MraUK U anD arOUnD
By bus Foreigners are now allowed by road to Mrauk U, (Tues, Fri & Sun; 4–5hr; K10,000; tickets available in
but aside from those travelling between here and advance from their office near the jetty, or you can buy
Sittwe, few people brave the long journeys to other parts of them as you board the boat); the slow government boat
the country. (Wed & Sat; 6hr 30min–7hr 30min; $6 or K7000, plus
Destinations Magwe (daily; 10hr); Mandalay (1–2 daily; K1000 for a seat) fills in one of the remaining days. All
24hr); Sittwe (3–4 daily; 4hr); Yangon (1–2 daily; 24hr). boats leave at 7am. You can also charter a boat from
By boat Most visitors still come by boat from Sittwe (see p.123).
Sittwe (see p.123). Services dock at the jetty close By car Increasing numbers of foreign tourists travelling
to the town centre, which is within walking distance of between Sittwe and Mrauk U choose to take the boat
most accommodation. A tuk-tuk to outlying hotels will one-way and then hire a private car to get back again
cost K1000–2000. Leaving Mrauk U, there is currently (2.5hr). This is easily organized through most hotels in
one boat daily back to Sittwe. The fastest is the and around Mrauk U (less so from Sittwe) and costs
Shwe Pyin Tan (Mon, Thurs & Sat; 2hr 30min; K25,000; K90,000–100,000. The driver can drop you straight at
buy tickets in advance from the Hay Mar restaurant by the airport.
the jetty); slightly slower is the Aung Kyaw Moe
GeTTInG arOUnD
Although there was plenty of road reconstruction taking place at the time of writing, the roads in Mrauk U remain some of
the worst in Myanmar – more pothole than actual road in many places – and just riding a bike can be a bit of a rattle, while
even a kilometre in a tuk-tuk can turn into a bone-shatteringly bad trip.

By bike Although the town centre is very compact, By tuk-tuk Rakhine-style tuk-tuks look quite a bit like
heading out to the temples is best done by bike. Than Tun motorbikes with mini pick-up style attachments bolted to
Bicycle Rental (closed Sun), which is based between the the back, and crowds of them park up beside the jetty
town centre and the jetty, has loads of gearless bikes to meet all incoming ferries. They charge around K2000 for
available to rent for K3000/day. Alternatively, you can try a trip to the centre of the village.
asking about bike rental at your guesthouse.

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