Page 176 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

174 SoutheaStern MyanMar Myeik and around
Theindawgyi and around
• Between Bogyoke Rd and Yoke Taung St • Daily 5am–10pm • Free
At the top of a modest hill, Theindawgyi is Myeik’s oldest and most important pagoda.
It’s particularly lively in the evening, when locals visit in the hope of catching a rare
breeze. Of particular architectural interest is the ordination hall, its teak ceiling carved
with hermits and parrots. Just south of the compound, on the road that runs along the
hilltop, is the British-era District Commissioner’s office, still in government service, and
opposite a small building that was formerly the town’s arsenal.
Twin Islands
Daily during daylight hours • Free • Long-tail boats (K5000–6000 return) head out to both islands from just south of the main jetty
They’re hardly the stuff of tropical beach fantasies, but the Twin Islands are still worth a
visit. The northernmost island, Padaw Taung, is home to a standing Buddha statue and
several small stupas, while Pathet Taung’s resident Buddha is a large reclining version.
It’s not possible to walk from one to the other. In theory the Twin Islands are off-limits
3 to foreigners, but in reality this is rarely enforced.

Myeik Archipelago

The islands of the Myeik Archipelago are the stuff of legend. Part of one of the
least-known archipelagos in Southeast Asia, the gorgeous, largely uninhabited islands
are fringed with white-sand beaches and cloaked in jungles and mangrove forests,
which are home to gibbons, tiny mouse deer and monitor lizards, as well as (quite
possibly) any number of smaller creatures that are as yet unknown to science.
The islands have retained their near-pristine condition as they were almost totally
closed to outsiders for decades. They finally opened to dive boats for the very first time
in 1996. For almost the entire time since then, access has been limited to those on
live-aboard boat tours and guests of the luxury Andaman Club and low-key Myanmar
Andaman Resort, which were for many years the only two hotels on the islands (see
pp.175–176). Since then, only one other privately owned hotel has opened, though
rumours of future developments are rife. It’s only a matter of time before the situation
here begins to change dramatically. And while the live-aboards and resorts are easily out
of most budget travellers’ price range, the big news is that there are now affordable
day-trips to some of the islands departing from Myeik and Kawthaung (see box, p.175).
Despite the marketing spiel, the islands are not quite as untouched as they might first
appear. Widespread dynamite fishing has killed off many of the reefs, and the Salone
sea gypsies are increasingly being resettled on land in scruffy villages. Whether they
will be subjected to “human zoo-style” ethnic tourism, a fate that has befallen their
Moken cousins in Thailand, remains to be seen.
arrIVaL anD DeParture MyeIK anD arounD
By plane Myeik’s airport, 4km to the east of the town operate daily flights to Yangon and Kawthaung.
(taxi K5000), has daily flights to Yangon and Kawthaung. Destinations Kawthaung (2–3 daily; 45min); Yangon
At the time of research there were no flights between (2–3 daily; 2hr).
Myeik and Dawei, but this is generally considered a By bus The bus station is 4km northeast of the centre
temporary hiccup so it’s likely that flights will resume (K1000 by motorbike); tickets can be purchased here or at
shortly. Tickets are available from the Sun Far Travels offices near the fire station on Kan Phyar St.
office on Pyi Tawtar St (T059 41160, Wsunfartravels Destinations Dawei (7 daily; 6–7hr); Kawthaung (11 daily;
.com). Air KBZ, Apex Airlines and Myanmar Airways 9hr).
aCCoMMoDatIon
MYEIK town near the bus station, but it’s very well run and
Dolphin Guesthouse 139 Kan Phyar Rd T059 42868. spotlessly clean, if rather bland. Avoid the noisy road-
This hotel is in rather an awkward location, well out of facing rooms. $25

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