Page 198 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

196 Central MyanMar Yangon to Bagan
ANCIENT CITY OF BEIKTHANO
thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra; see p.193) might have been the largest and most important of the string
of so-called Pyu city-states that dominated the plains of Myanmar for a thousand years, but the
original was Beikthano, founded around 200 BC. Despite being part of Myanmar’s first UnESCo
World Heritage Site, Beikthano remains very little known even within the country. the site is
around 20km west of taungdwingyi, which is around the halfway point between Pyay and Bagan.
at its height, the city was likely to have been the capital of the first politically unified state in
Myanmar, covering some 740 acres and walled in its entirety. today, much of the site is buried
under a thick brush of trees, and is still awaiting excavation. However, some sections of the old
city walls and a series of walled compounds are visible, and there’s also a small museum.
a member of staff from here will usually be happy to show you around the archeological site.
the site is best visited while travelling between Pyay and Bagan in either a rented car or a
taxi, and you can use Magwe as an overnight stop (see opposite).

There’s no direct public transport from Htonbo to Pyay – you’ll have to take a bus
and then truck hop. You should be able to find transport in Pyay heading to either
Padaung or, better, Oke Shit Pin, and from there it’s likely you’ll encounter something
continuing on to Htonbo. Not surprisingly, most people end up hiring a taxi for a
half-day trip from Pyay (3hr return drive; K55,000).
arrIVal anD DePartUre Pyay anD arOUnD
4 By bus The bus station is 4km east of the centre along By train Nightly services to Yangon leave from the main
Bogyoke Rd – to get there from the centre, either hop on
station in the middle of town. There’s also an overnight
one of the pick-ups that shuttle up and down Bogyoke Rd service to Bagan departing from Shwethekar Station,
or catch a motorbike taxi (K1500). The only bus to Bagan around 10km east of the centre.
currently leaves in the late afternoon; alternatively, catch a Destinations Bagan (daily; 10hr); Yangon (daily; 8hr 30min).
bus to Magwe and pick up a connection there. The buses to By boat There used to be twice-weekly IWT government
Ngapali and Sittwe are minibuses. ferries to Yangon, Bagan and Mandalay, but they weren’t
Destinations Bagan (daily; 10–12hr); Magwe (4 daily; 5hr); running at the time of research – it’s worth checking
Mandalay (2 daily; 13hr); Ngapali (2 daily; 12hr); Nyaung U whether they’re operating again. The office is the small,
(daily; 8hr); Sittwe (daily; 28hr); Yangon (6 daily; 6–7hr). green shack on Strand Road.
aCCOMMODatIOn
Hotel 3D 1448 Shwe The Tann St T09 973 939 395. have interconnecting ponds and a large carp-filled lake. The
Modern but bland town-centre hotel that’s comfortable rooms, which are in individual wooden bungalows with little
and filled with staff who politely bow whenever a guest terraces, are comfortable in a minimalist kind of way, but lack
walks past. Although it’s based almost overlooking the the wow factor that the room rates might indicate. $80
night market, it’s on a quieter side street. $30 Pan Ga Ba Guesthouse Merchant St T053 26543. In a
★ Lucky Dragon Hotel 772 Strand Rd T053 24222. wonderful old timber building, this is as much a homestay as
Unexpectedly upmarket mini-resort in the heart of Pyay, a guesthouse and the family running it will fuss endlessly over
with accommodation in attractive white chalets spread out you – and quite possibly invite you to eat with them. Rooms
down a long, thin garden, plus a smallish pool. Rooms are are very simple and hot water comes by the bucket. K22,000
surprisingly stylish, with parquet floors, cool white decor Smile Motel 10–11 Bogyoke Rd T053 25142,
and smart, modern bathrooms. Excellent value. $55 Esmilemotel333@gmail.com. This place, on the noisy
Mingalar Garden Resort 10–11 Bogyoke Rd T053 main road, would put a smile on your face if it was about
28661, Wmingalargardenresort.com. This resort-style half the price, and the rooms are quite musty and
hotel is based well out of town, but just a short walk from the uninspiring. The cheapest rooms, though small, are
Payagyi Stupa. The highlight is the landscaped gardens, which actually quieter and better value. No breakfast. $24
eatInG
Pyay has an above-average range of eating options compared to most places of a similar size, and the centre tends to stay
lively until relatively late – particularly the busy string of restaurants along Yangon Road south of the Aung San statue.
There’s also a small but excellent night market spread along Old Post Office Rd west of the statue.

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