Page 94 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

92 Yangon and around EATING
1 alongside lighter meals and snacks including a good Fighting Ball”, which is just a fancy name for goats’ testicles.
masala dosa and classic subcontinental sweets like Mysore Mains K1500–3000 (or K5000 for prawn and crab dishes)
pak and gulab jamun. Daily 6.30am–8.30pm. – and they’ll keep on topping up your plate until you can
★ Bogyoke Market Food Court West side of Bogyoke eat no more. Daily 5am–10pm.
Market, behind Bambi Hot and Cold Drink; map p.62. Kosan 108 19th St T01 503232, Wfacebook.com
A great place to refuel during a shopping expedition into /kosan.myanmar; map p.62. One of the liveliest of 19th
Bogyoke Market, this little covered courtyard of colourful St’s bustling restaurants, and also one of the few serving
cafés looks like a real slice of Burmese life, with the various food other than Burmese or Chinese, with an eclectic
resident chefs dishing up simple fried noodles, rice dishes selection of mains (K2500–3000) including taco rice, jerk
and curries (around K2000–3000). Most places have pork, fried chicken wings and German sausage. Or just
English menus, although few show prices – check before come for a drink (see p.95). Daily 4pm–midnight.
you order. It’s also a good place for an iced coffee or fresh LinkAge 1st floor, 141 Seikkantha St T09 451 933 034;
juice, with unusual beverages including freshly squeezed map p.64. Brave the treacherously steep stairs to reach this
avocado, plum and black seaweed. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. cosy little restaurant, serving up good authentic Burmese
Danuphyu Daw Saw Yi 175–177 29th St T01 food including lots of Myanmar-style fish and seafood
248977; map p.62. Neat little no-frills restaurant curries, salads and soups – the pickled mango with roasted
popular both with locals and tourists. There’s no menu peanut salad is a treat. Most mains K4000–8000. Tues–
– food is laid out behind the counter and the helpful Sun 11am–2pm & 6–10pm.
staff will talk you through what’s available, which might Lotaya Bogyoke Market (turn right out of the principal
include anything from simple chicken and veg dishes exit at the back of the main market building); map
through to butterfish and lobster. Food is good, although p.62. This unpretentious little café provides a useful pit
prices are above average – expect to spend around stop behind Bogyoke Market, dishing up above-average
K4000–5000 for a main course plus rice, soup and veg Shan noodles, with assorted Thai and Chinese dishes
side dish. Daily 10am–9pm. thrown in for good measure (mains K3000–4000). Tues–
East East Hotel, 234–240 Sule Pagoda Rd T09 7313 Sun 9am–5pm.
5311; map p.64. Modern hotel restaurant alongside Sule ★ Lucky Seven 130 49 St T01 292382; map p.62. One
Pagoda Rd – zero atmosphere, but a comfortable retreat of the few remaining traditional teahouses left in downtown
from the streets. The wide-ranging menu (mains $5–6) Yangon, packed most hours of the day with a lively local
features plenty of Asian classics – pad thai, nasi goreng, crowd enjoying tea, noodles and buns. The big picture menu
various Malaysian and Chinese options – as well as pasta, is full of good things (mains K1000–1500) – an excellent
burgers, salads and soups, and they also do a decent breakfast mohinga, noodles and dumplings galore, Indian-
Myanmar curry. Daily 11am–9pm. style curries with puris or parathas, spare ribs and tasty
Gekko 535 Merchant St, between 37th and Pansodan samosa salads. Seating is either inside or on the pretty little
sts T01 386986; map p.64. Cool restaurant in a lovingly outdoor terrace smothered in plants. Daily 6am–5.30pm.
restored section of the old Sofaer Building (see p.63), Monsoon 85–87 Theinbyu Rd T01 295224; map p.62.
serving up top-quality Japanese food at top-dollar prices. Upmarket restaurant in a high-ceilinged old colonial
Food features a range of sushi, sashimi, yakitori, teppanyaki building with fans twirling overhead. There’s a good
and other Far Eastern classics, served up in either “small selection of Western food available, but it’s the restaurant’s
plate” (K3000–8000) or “large plate” (K10,000–16,000) Southeast Asian cuisine that really hogs the limelight,
portions. Daily 11am–11pm. with oodles of Thai, Lao, Vietnamese and Cambodian
Green Gallery 52nd St T09 3131 5131, Wfacebook dishes plus excellent Burmese food – try the Ayeyarwady
.com/yangongreengallery; map p.62. This rustic little butterfish, or the “Bachelor’s curry” with chicken and
shoebox-sized café is the unlikely venue for some of gourd (most mains K7000). Good drinks list too, with half-
Yangon’s finest Thai food, with a short but sweet menu price cocktails during happy hour (daily 5–7pm). Daily
of excellent and authentic salads, soups and flavour- noon–2.30pm & 6–10.30pm.
filled curries (mains K4000–6000). Seating is at a Nang Htike Bogyoke Rd, between 46th and 47th sts;
premium, so arrive early or expect to wait. Mon–Sat map p.62. No-frills restaurant serving up decent Shan
noon–3pm & 6–9pm. noodles (K1000–1500), plus various other noodle and rice
Ingyin New South Indian Food Centre Corner Bo dishes, with seating either in the cramped interior or on the
Soon Pat and Anawrahta roads; map p.62. Lively little pavement outside. Handy if you’re staying in the area, but
place dishing up good, cheap South Indian food. Choose not worth a special trip otherwise. Daily 7am–11pm.
from veg, chicken, mutton, prawn, fish and crab curries ★ Pansuriya 102 Bogalayzay St T09 778 949 170;
served with puri or chapati. They also do a good dosa, map p.62. In a lovely airy colonial building with walls
although you might wish to steer clear of the “Mutton covered in artworks and photos, Pansuriya has bags of

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