Page 149 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS

ABOVE The intricate filigree design of Beijing’s Bird’s Nest Stadium, icon of the 2008 Olympic Games,
shown off to dramatic effect when seen at night, illuminated from within
‘
BIRD’S NEST STADIUM, BEIJING, CHINA With its filigree shell and twig-like structural REGISTAN, SAMARKAND, UZBEKISTAN The centerpiece of historic Samarkand
elements, the Beijing National Stadium, which became so familiar to so many during the (see p122) is the Registan, a beautifully proportioned group of madrasahs (schools)
2008 Olympic Games, really does resemble a giant bird’s nest. One of the many unusual adorned with majolica and mosaics. In the archway above the door of the 17th-century
features of the design involved filling the spaces between the “twigs” with inflatable Sher Dor Madrasah are mosaics of lions attacking deer – rare in Islamic art, which does
cushions to regulate the effects of wind and weather. The building has won not usually portray animals or human figures. Opposite stands the the sublime Ulughbek
environmental plaudits for incorporating a rainwater collection system and a translucent Madrasah, with its soaring columns and astronomical motifs. A third madrasah is named
roof that permits sunlight to penetrate so that the grass beneath can flourish. Tilla-Kari – “coated with gold” – for the gilding covering its dome and walls.

KUWAIT TOWERS These three towers KREMLIN, VELIKY NOVGOROD, RUSSIA Enclosed by red-brick walls, the Kremlin, also
are the lavish result of the 1970s oil known as the Detinets, sits at the heart of this ancient city on the banks of the Volkhov
boom. The highest, at 615 ft (187 m), is River. Built mainly in the early 16th century, it was one of the most impregnable citadels
adorned with two huge spheres, the upper in Russia. It now encloses a selection of buildings from various eras, ranging from the
one with a revolving viewing deck. The Gothic Granovitaya Palata (Chamber of Facets), dating from 1433, to the 19th-century,
second tower holds a water tank, and the bell-shaped Millennium of Russia Monument, which is crowned by a cross and the figure
shortest illuminates its taller neighbors. of a woman representing Russia.

MUSEU OSCAR NIEMEYER, CURITIBA, MELNIKOV HOUSE, MOSCOW, SALINE ROYALE, ARC-ET-SENANS, SEA RANCH CHAPEL, GUALALA,
BRAZIL Oscar Niemeyer, Brazil’s best- RUSSIA Russia’s great Constructivist FRANCE The Saline Royale (Royal CALIFORNIA, USA Resembling a huge
known architect, has had a long career; architect Konstantin Melnikov built this Saltworks) is a valuable example of early seashell, the non-denominational Sea
this museum opened in 2002 when he house for his family in the late 1920s, before industrial architecture. Construction of Ranch Chapel, dating from 1984, is a
was 95 years old. The annexe resembles a ceasing work in protest at having to the huge semicircular complex began in quirky place. Appealing but slightly kitsch,
great almond-shaped eye balanced atop conform to Stalinist style. One of his last 1775 under Louis XVI, financed by a salt it has a swooping cedar roof crowned
a broad yellow plinth, reflected in the pool projects, it comprises two intersecting tax so unpopular it is said to have been with a wavy spire resembling a peacock’s
in which it stands. Behind this stands the cylindrical towers: one admits light via a one cause of the French Revolution. It was plumage, lots of native redwood, and
long, low exhibition space, its smooth, flat glazed wall; the other is illuminated intended as the first step in creating an delicate stained-glass inserts in the roof,
clean lines typical of Niemeyer’s work. by a pattern of hexagonal windows. ideal city, but the plan was never realized. doors, and windows to filter the light.

TWA FLIGHT CENTER, NEW YORK, USA VILLA MAJORELLE, NANCY, FRANCE SAADIAN TOMBS, MARRAKECH,
The graceful, free-flowing curves of Eero A combined effort of outstanding Art MOROCCO The tombs were built by
Saarinen’s futuristic Terminal 5 at JFK Nouveau craftmanship, the villa was Ahmad al-Mansur in the late 16th century,
Airport (now occupied by JetBlue commissioned by furniture-maker Louis but when Moulay Ismail came to power a
airlines) are a potent symbol of flight. Majorelle; Lucien Weissenburger and century later he had the entrances sealed,
Every aspect of it, from the wide windows Henri Sauvage designed the house, and and they remained so until 1917. Now
overlooking the tarmac to the cool Jacques Gruber the beautiful stained visitors can see what was hidden for so
outlines of the sweeping staircases glass. Majorelle himself produced the long: two stunning mausoleums housing
leading to elegant passenger lounges, furniture and the grand staircase, and more than 60 royal tombs, with intricate
recalls the days when flying was romantic. there are delightful details throughout. carvings and beautiful mosaic tiles.

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