Page 156 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)
P. 156

152


            NATURAL WONDERS  The Orinoco











                                  vs the Amazon




                                                                                                           ABOVE A row of Amazon tour boats waiting to cast off
                   The Orinoco symbolizes all that is mysterious, wild, and wonderful in South America,
                            and makes for a spectacular alternative to the over-visited Amazon             FORGET THE
                                                                                                           AMAZON?

                                                             and Venezuela. Even now there remains some    THE BUILD-UP There’s no doubt that the
                    NEED TO KNOW                                                                          Amazon, a long-time favorite with explorers,
                                                             doubt about the river’s true source, and several
                                       $BSJCCFBO 4 FB                                                     remains a big draw for travelers. It is, after all,
                    LOCATION Originating in                  of its tributaries have yet to be explored.
                    southern Venezuela, the river                                                         a superlative among rivers: it is the longest river
                    runs north along the border   $BSBDBT       What makes the Orinoco so impressive is the   in South America (some say the world), has
                    with Colombia and then east              incredible diversity of microclimates, fauna, flora, and
                                      4BO  7&/&;6&-"                                                      the largest drainage basin on earth, and, by
                    across Venezuela to the sea  $SJTUØCBM  $JVEBE  terrain, which fall within its enormous basin – an area
                    LENGTH                 03*/0$0  (VBZBOB                                               dint of its sheer size, is home to a staggering
                                             3*7&3           of more than 340,000 sq miles (880,000 sq km).   array of flora and fauna.
                    1,699 miles (2,735 km)
                                     $0-0.#*"
                    CLIMATE Temperatures range               Though the Amazon boasts remarkable biological
                    from 81°F (27°C) to 88°F (31°C);         richness, much of the river is either inaccessible or   THE LETDOWN But what will you really have
                    the Orinoco is much less humid   #3";*-                                                a chance to see here? The few towns teem with
                    than most tropical rivers                prohibitively expensive to reach, while the Orinoco –
                                                             which is navigable for most of its length, unlike the   tour operators and travel agencies, all of which
                                                             Amazon – is easily seen and explored. Keep your eyes   charge top-end prices, but few of which deliver.
                                                                                                           Hardly any of these tour operators are located
                  The Orinoco will not fail to delight even the most   peeled and you’re likely to spot alligators, pink
                                                                                                           on the river. And then there’s the Amazon itself
                  jaded traveler. The Amazon may be bigger and   dolphins, boa constrictors, herons, howler monkeys,
                                                                                                           – unlike the Orinoco, parts of it are literally
                  better known, but it doesn’t provide direct access   and pumas. The Orinoco protects one of the last
                                                                                                           impassable, and the foliage is often so dense that
                  to the continent’s most astonishing wildlife and   pristine ecosystems on the planet, and boasts the   you may not be able to see much of anything.
                  scenery the way the Orinoco does. This mighty   highest biodiversity rate of any river system. Nearly a
                  river system is home to some of the world’s most   dozen new species are discovered along its banks   GOING ANYWAY? For those who feel they
                  biodiverse ecosystems, and runs a breathtaking   every month. And the river’s mouth, the Orinoco   must see the Amazon at all costs, one option is
                  topographical gamut, from tall mountains and   Delta, is thought to be the continent’s richest area in   to fly to Manaus in Brazil, and start the journey
                  tropical forests to humid llanos (plains) and marshy   aquatic biodiversity. At last count, this still largely   there. The city’s central location and innumerable
                  deltas, before finally emptying into the Atlantic.   uncharted river was home to more than 10,000 plant   tour operators will make your planning easier.
                     For centuries this mysterious river has intrigued   species, 1,400 bird species, 1,200 fish species, and at
                  explorers and adventurers. The mouth of the   least 340 different types of mammals. You won’t find
                  Orinoco was sighted by Columbus in 1498, but  those numbers anywhere else on earth.
                  it was not until the 1950s that explorers finally
                  stumbled upon its headwaters at Cerro Delgado-  PRACTICAL INFORMATION
                  Chalbaud, one of the most remote spots in the
                  western hemisphere, located high up in the   Getting There and Around  Where to Stay
                                                               Many travelers choose to start   Although you’ll probably spend
                  Parima Mountains on the border between Brazil
                                                               their trip at the mouth of the   most nights on the boat, the town
                                                               river, which is northeast of Ciudad   of Caicara de Orinoco, 373 miles
                                                               Guyana in Venezuela, and stock   (600 km) southwest of Ciudad
                                                               up on provisions in the city. There   Guyana, is a perfect stopover point.
                                                               are many reputable tour operators   The Hotel Miami (tel. +58 35 67
                                                               here, who will take you around   587) here is comfortable and
                                                               some remarkable sights, including   inexpensive, and is also only a
                                                               picturesque waterfalls and pools,   stone’s throw from the town’s
                                                               before you get to the river.  best restaurant, Caicara de Orinoco.
                                                               Where to Eat      When to Go
                                                               On a river excursion like this you   The best time to visit is in
                                                               will probably have your own food   September, when humidity is at
                                                               on board. However, it’s likely that   its lowest and you have a good
                                                               you will stop off at several towns   chance of seeing wildlife.
                                                               along the river, where you’ll have
                                                               the chance to sample local food   Budget per Day for Two
                                                               ranging from traditional chicken-   Roughly US$150, depending on
                                                               and rice-based dishes to more   your tour operator.
                                                               exotic flavors, including ostrich   Website
                                                               and even piranha.  www.miamisci.org/orinoco
                  ABOVE The Orinoco meandering through lush forest, Venezuela






                                                                                                                                            24/7/09   10:56:52
          US152-153_nat_orinoco.indd   152                                                                                                  16/4/09   11:23:26
          152-153_nat_orinoco.indd   152
   151   152   153   154   155   156   157   158   159   160   161