Page 58 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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FESTIVALS AND PARTIES Mamaia FORGET IBIZA?

THE BUILD-UP Centuries ago, the Phoenician
inhabitants of Ibiza worshipped Bes, the god of
dance. In the 1980s, sun-starved Brits caught
on and flocked to the island, turning it into
ground zero for electronic culture. Loyal fans
claim Ibiza has the best clubs, the coolest DJs,

THE LETDOWN Package tourism and over-
vs Ibiza and the most gorgeous beaches in the world.
development have blighted Ibiza’s rustic charm.
San An’s West End strip is a haven of tacky strip
clubs and British theme pubs. Strict licensing
laws have put an end to its famous after-party
With its prices up and new laws laid down, the erstwhile queen of clubs, Ibiza, is seeing scene and open-air events have largely died out
due to noise restrictions. The major clubs are
its fans move on to Mamaia, the new party paradise on the Black Sea coast eye-wateringly expensive.

GOING ANYWAY? Stay out of the main resorts,
unfurl on the highway leading from Bucharest
NEED TO KNOW San An and Playa d’en Bossa. A villa or, at a
as thousands of workers flee the capital for a push, an apartment in Ibiza Town makes a good
LOCATION Mamaia lies on
6,3"*/& weekend of seaside debauchery. base. Rental cars are cheap and wheels are vital
Romania’s Black Sea coast,
)6/("3:
around 140 miles (225 km) DJs who are bored of Ibiza’s chilly attitude for exploring the island’s numerous beautiful
east of Bucharest .0-%07" towards partying are flocking to Mamaia. La Mania beaches. Plan your club nights in advance to
WHEN "SBE #BDÉV and Kristal attract A-listers such as M.A.N.D.Y., Loco take advantage of cheaper pre-sale tickets. Visit
1 May: La Mania opening party; 30."/*" in June or September; avoid August.
mid-August: Sunwaves Festival Dice, and Booka Shade, who can’t get enough of
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES #VDIBSFTU its giddy atmosphere. Unlike the blasé clubbers in
Jan: 39°F (4°C); Apr: 57°F ."."*" Ibiza, who linger around the bars before breaking
(14°C); July: 79°F (26°C); 4&3#*"
Oct: 63°F (17°C) .0/5&/&(30 #6-("3*" any shapes, the fans here get on the dancefloor
early and stay there till the last record plays.
Mamaia even has its own festival, Sunwaves,
Once upon a time Ibiza was an island Aphrodite held in August. Headliners have included Danny
emerging from the cobalt wash of the Mediterranean, Tenaglia, John Digweed, Ricardo Villalobos, Troy
heaven sent to welcome young, wild, beautiful Pierce, and local boys Rhadoo, Raresh, and Pedro,
dancers from the world over. Unfortunately, not all for the ticket price of US$20. In most Ibiza clubs,
even goddesses are immune to the ravages of you’d be lucky to get a drink for that. Even DJs such
excessive late nights and vodka lemonade. Roofs as Luciano, who made his name at Ibiza’s famous ABOVE Party-goers thronging a street in San Antonio, Ibiza
crept over the open-air pleasure palaces; rules after-hours club DC10, can’t stop raving about
silenced the bongo pulse of full-moon parties and Romania. Finally, the next generation of dance fans
– worst of all – package holidays transformed an has found its own island in the sun.
enchanted hideaway into an overpriced stop on
the 18–30 tourist trail. A new generation of
hedonists, craving the freedom and spontaneity PRACTICAL INFORMATION
that made Ibiza legendary, is increasingly heading
Getting There and Around Alternatively, for something
east, to the Black Sea.
Fly to Bucharest and travel by budget-friendly but equally
Sun-soaked, carefree clubbing may have been train (3–4 hrs), car or coach delicious, opt for one of the
born in Ibiza, Spain, but Mamaia, in Romania, is to Mamaia. Alternatively, fly to traditional eateries along the
where it has come to evolve. Set on the west coast Budapest, in Hungary, from seafront, specializing in hearty
of the Black Sea, Mamaia’s striking beaches provide where you can catch a flight to grilled meats to refuel you for
Constanta Mihail Kogălniceanu the night’s adventures.
a dazzling backdrop to the throbbing beats of its
International Airport, which is Where to Stay
super-clubs, La Mania and Kristal. Sea, sun, and about 15 miles (25 km) from The bright, cheerful beachfront
stunning bodies are obvious charms, but it is the Mamaia and served by taxis and Hotel Ambasador (www.hotel-
heady mix of liberality, low prices, and a ravenous buses. Local bus routes 23E, 41 ambasador.ro/index_eng.html)
appetite for cutting-edge electronic music that has and 301 also run from Constanta is a perfect place to recharge.
to Mamaia.
the dance cognoscenti bobbing with glee. When to Go
Where to Eat
Just 5 miles (8 km) long, Mamaia cleans up in July and August is peak season.
Romanian fare is rich in meat,
the hedonism-per-square-foot stakes. In striking fish, and dairy – think cheese Devoted clubbers arrive early for
contrast to Ibiza, where the club scene is largely and cold cuts to start, followed La Mania’s May 1 opening party.
tourist-fueled (the locals tend to prefer rock), by meat or fish stew. For a Budget per Day for Two
US$170
Romania buzzes with passionate home-grown first-rate meal with a choice of
local and international cuisine Website
clubbers. Dance music is still fresh and exciting,
try the restaurant at the 4-star www.romaniatourism.com/
and there is a real sense of freedom after years of Iaki Hotel (www.iaki.ro/en). constanta.html
dreary Communism. Every weekend, taillights

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