Page 183 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands
P. 183

The maze-like old capital
                                            of Astypálea, with the
                                            kastró lit up above

       Livádia, the main settlement,   gateway and stone from the   Ioánnis Theológos, with
       has a tree-fringed pebble   ancient acropolis. The town’s   appealing 16th- and 17th-
       beach sweeping round its bay,   Palaeontological Museum has   century frescoes.
       with the picturesque blue and   the fossilized bones of minia-    West of Megálo Horió is the
       white church of Agios Nikólaos  ture elephants found in the   little fishing village of Ágios
       dominating the waterfront.   Harkadió cave across the   Andónios, with at least one
         Built on the site of the   valley from Megálo Horió; the   taverna open in summer. For
       ancient city of Telos, Megálo   castle of Messariá above it   those who wish to swim, Pláka
       Horió is 8 km (5 miles) uphill   marks the spot.   beach, 2 km (1 mile) west, is
       from Livádia, and is reached     The most interesting, and   an ideal spot.
       by bus. Its kástro was built by   likely to be open, of several     High above on the west
       the Knights of St John, who   medieval churches in and   coast, the Byzantine Moní
       incorporated a Classical   around Megálo Horió is Ágios   Agíou Pandelímonos  is the
                                               island’s main attraction. Set in
                                               a spring-fed oasis, this forti-
                                               fied monastery is famous for
                                               its sunset views. Founded in
                      STAY                     1470 it has circular chapels, a
                                               pebble-mosaic courtyard and
                                               medieval monks’ cells. The
             Ilidi Rock      Aretanassa Hotel  dome of the church has a
         This hillside apart-hotel is   Hotel in a historic former   version of Christ Pandokrátor
         the poshest on the island.  sponge-factory.  (1776) by Gregory of Sými,
             ⌂ Livádia, Tílos    ⌂ Emborió quay, Hálki    who also executed the Holy
             ∑ ilidirock.gr  ∑ aretanassa-hotel.gr  Trinity in the apse, a carved
                                               témblon (icon screen) that
              ¡¡¡                ¡¡¡
                                               dates from 1714.
                                                 Mikró Horió, below the
           Kilindra Studios      Nefeli        castle at Messariá, has 220
         The island’s first, and still   A comfortable bungalow   roofless abandoned houses.
        the best, boutique lodging.  hotel with cheerful decor.
                                               Those residents who had
           ⌂ Southwest slope    ⌂ Behind Kámbos    stone roofs took them to
           of Hóra, Astypálea   beach, Lipsí   Livádia when the population
           ∑ astipalea.com.gr  ∑ lipsinefelihotel.com  abandoned the village in the
              ¡¡¡                ¡¡¡           1950s. Quiet during the day, at
                                               night the ruins are illumi-
                                               nated. One house has been
                                               restored as a summer bar.
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