Page 189 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands

A white church
on Kastrí islet, in the
midst of turquoise sea

9
Kéfalos
⌂ 38 km (23 miles) SW
of Kos town
Kéfalos, on the mountainous
peninsula inland from Kamári,
is known for its thyme, honey
and cheeses. Sights include
a tiny ruined fortress of the
Knights Hospitaller and a line
Ypapandí (Presentation of Byzantine monument but of derelict windmills on the
Jesus) was built by Blessed now in deplorable condition, ridge above.
Christodoulos using ancient its mosaics of peacocks and More interesting, south of
columns, before he went to ducks covered in thick gravel Kéfalos, are the ruins of
Pátmos (p158). and its columns knocked over. Panagía Palatianí, a 9th­ or
In modern Pylí lies the Still, it’s an atmospheric spot, 10th­century chapel built of
Harmylio, the purported grave right opposite Kastrí islet, a ancient masonry, probably
of king of legend Harmylos – small island with the church of pilfered from Astypalaia,
but actually a Hellenistic Ágios Nikolaos, now popular Hippocrates’s birthplace.
family tomb with 12 under­ as a wedding destination. Some 7 km (4 miles) beyond
ground niches. On top, built Kéfalos is Agíou Ioánni
reusing ancient masonry, sits Thymianoú monastery.
Stavrós chapel.
8
Andimáhia HIPPOCRATES
7 ⌂ 25 km (16 miles) W of The first holistic healer
Kamári Kos town @ and “father of modern
Andimáhia village is best medicine”, Hippocrates
⌂ 30 km (19 miles) SW was born in 460 BC on
of Kos town @ known for its restored central Kos and died in about
windmill, now a small museum, 375 BC on Thessaly. He
Kamári is a good base for and eponymous nearby castle, was the first physician
exploring the southwest coast 4 km (2 miles) south east. to classify diseases,
where the island’s best Constructed by the Knights and he intro duced new
beaches can be found. A half­ Hospitallers during the 14th methods of diagnosis
dozen of these in a row are century atop Byzantine foun­ and treat ment. He
signposted just east of dations, this castle served as a taught on Kos, and the
Kamári, down steep tracks vital lookout, as the island was Asklepion was set up
(part paved) from the main bombarded by pirates in the using his methods. His
highway. With its golden sand, same era. In the early 2000s, disciples wrote the
Magic (Polémi) is the best of the massive crenellated battle­ Hippocratic Oath, to
the lot and has a naturist ments and entry gatetower cure rather than harm.
section, followed by Markos were restored. The inner
(Langádes), with its juniper­ gateway still bears the coat of
stablized dunes. At the far arms of the Grand Master
east end of Kamári bay itself Pierre d’Aubusson (served
stands the 5th­century 1476–1503), known for his
Christian basilica of Ágios defence of Rhodes against the
Stéfanos, once Kos’s premier Ottomans, and there are two
small chapels within the walls.
Well worth the detour, it also
has good views over resort
The steps and niches town Kardámena. The road
at the archaeological north from the town leads to

site of Asklepion the port town of Masticharí.
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