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Eating & Sleeping                      / GETTY IMAGES ©


                                      4 Le Grand Monarque   Hotel €€€
        Paris 1                       (%02 37 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.
                                      com; 22 place des Épars; d €145-215, f €275;
        5 Holybelly       International  €  aiW) With its teal-blue shutters gracing
        (www.holybel.ly; 19 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e;   its 1779 façade, lovely stained-glass ceiling,
        breakfast €5-11.50, lunch mains €13.50-16.50;   and treasure trove of period furnishings, old
        h9am-6pm Thu, Fri, Mon, from 10am Sat &   B&W photos and knick-knacks, the refurbished
        Sun; mJacques Bonsergent) This outstanding   Grand Monarque (with air-con in some rooms)
        barista-run coffee shop and kitchen is always   is a historical gem and very central. A host of
        rammed with a buoyant crowd, who never tire of   hydrotherapy treatments are available at its
        Holybelly’s exceptional service, Belleville-roasted   spa. Its elegant restaurant, Georges (%02 37
        coffee and cuisine. Sarah’s breakfast pancakes   18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.com; 22 place
     FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
        served with egg, bacon, homemade bourbon   des Épars; 4-course menu from €75, 8-course
        butter and maple syrup are legendary, while her   tasting menu €95, mains €38-41; hnoon-2pm
        lunch menu features everything from traditional   & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat), has a Michelin star. Staff
        braised veal shank to squid à la plancha.  are charming.
        4 Hôtel Amour   Boutique Hotel  €€
        (%01 48 78 31 80; www.hotelamourparis.fr; 8   Mont St-Michel 5
        rue Navarin, 9e; d €170-230; W; mSt-Georges,
        Pigalle) Craving romance in Paris? The inimitable  4 Vent des Grèves   B&B €
        black-clad Amour (‘Love’) features original   (%Estelle 02 33 48 28 89; www.ventdesgreves.
        design and nude artwork in each of the rooms,   com; 7-9 chemin des Dits, Ardevon; s/d/tr/q incl
        some more explicit than others. The icing on the   breakfast €42/52/62/72) This friendly, family-
        cake is the hip ground-floor bistro with summer   run B&B has five modern rooms, furnished
        patio garden, a tasty spot for breakfast, lunch or   simply, with magical views of the Mont.
        dinner and everything in between. Rooms don’t   Outstanding value. Situated an easily walkable
        have a TV, but who cares when you’re in love?  1km east of the shuttle stop in La Caserne.

        Chartres 3                    Bordeaux 7
        5 Le Tripot           Bistro €€  5 Le Petit Commerce   Seafood €€
        (%02 37 36 60 11; www.letripot.wixsite.com/  (05 56 79 76 58; 22 rue Parlement St-Pierre;
        chartres; 11 place Jean Moulin; 2-/3-course   2-course lunch menu €14, mains €15-25;
        lunch menus €15/18, 3-course dinner menus   hnoon-midnight) This iconic bistro, with dining
        €29.50-45, mains €13.50-22; hnoon-1.45pm   rooms both sides of a narrow pedestrian street
        & 7.30-9.15pm Tue & Thu-Sat, noon-1.45pm Sun)   and former Michelin-starred chef Stéphane
        Tucked off the tourist trail and easy to miss, even   Carrade in the kitchen, is the star turn of the
        if you do chance down its narrow street, this   trendy St-Pierre quarter. It’s best known for
        atmospheric space with low beamed ceilings is   its excellent seafood menu that embraces
        a treat for authentic and adventurous French   everything from Arcachon sole and oysters to
        fare like saddle of rabbit stuffed with snails,   eels, lobsters and chipirons (baby squid) fresh
        and grilled turbot in truffled hollandaise sauce.   from St-Jean de Luz.
        Locals are onto it, so booking ahead is advised.

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