Page 191 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

nickname, Le Château des completed the château’s Grande Gallerie over the
Dames). The distinctive construction and added Cher. From 1940 to 1942 it
arches and the eastern the yew-tree maze and served as an escape route
formal garden were added the western rose garden. for refugees fleeing from
by Diane de Poitiers, Chenonceau had an 18th- German-occupied France
mistress of King Henri II. century heyday under (north of the Cher) to the
Following Henri’s death, the aristocratic Madame Vichy-controlled south.
Catherine de Médicis, the Dupin, who made it a cen- The Drive » Follow the D81
king’s scheming widow, tre of fashionable society; north 13km into Amboise; 2km
forced Diane (her second guests included Voltaire south of town, you’ll pass the
cousin) to exchange and Rousseau. Mini­Châteaux theme park,
Chenonceau for the rather The château’s pièce de whose intricate scale models
less grand Château de résistance is the 60m-long, of 44 Loire Valley châteaux are
Chaumont. Catherine chequerboard-floored great fun for kids!

DETOUR: FRANCE 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
SOUTH OF THE LOIRE RIVER
Start: 4 Azay-le-Rideau
Escape the crowds by detouring to four less­visited châteaux between Azay­le­
Rideau and Chenonceaux.
First stop: Loches, where Joan of Arc, fresh from her victory at Orléans in 1429,
famously persuaded Charles VII to march to Reims and claim the French crown. The
undisputed highlight here is the Cité Royale (%02 47 59 01 32; www.chateau-loches.
fr; h24hr), a vast citadel that spans 500 years of French château architecture in a
single site, from Foulques Nerra’s austere 10th­century keep to the Flamboyant
Gothic and Renaissance styles of the Logis Royal. To get here from Azay­le­Rideau,
head 55km east and then southeast along the D751, A85 and D943.
Next comes the quirky Château de Montrésor (%02 47 92 60 04; www.
chateaudemontresor.fr; Montrésor; adult/child €8/4; h10am-7pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-6pm Sat
& Sun mid-Nov–Mar), 19km east of Loches on the D760, still furnished much as it was
over a century ago, when it belonged to Polish-born count, financier and railroad
magnate Xavier Branicki. The eclectic decor includes a Cuban mahogany spiral
staircase, a piano once played by Chopin and a treasury room filled with Turkish
hookahs, plus other spoils from the 17th­century Battle of Vienna.
Next, head 20km north on the D10 and D764 to the Château de Montpoupon
(%02 47 94 21 15; www.chateau-loire-montpoupon.com; adult/child €9/5; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep,
shorter hours winter), idyllically situated in rolling countryside. Opposite the castle, grab
lunch at the wonderful Auberge de Montpoupon (%02 47 59 01 18; www.chateau-loire-
montpoupon.com; Céré-la-Ronde; mains €11.50-18.50; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat Apr-Oct).
Continue 12km north on the D764 to Château de Montrichard, another
ruined 11th­century fortress constructed by Foulques Nerra. After visiting the
château, picnic in the park by the Cher River or taste sparkling wines at Caves
Monmousseau (%02 54 32 35 15; www.monmousseau.com; 71 route de Vierzon, Montrichard;
h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar).
From Montrichard, head 10km west on the D176 and D40 to rejoin the main route
at Chenonceaux.

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