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Gaelic) takes its name
          OUTER HEBRIDES                       from the old Norse sky-a,
                                               meaning ‘cloud island’, a
          If you’re not ready to return to the mainland after   Viking reference to the
          visiting the Isle of Skye, consider a trip to the Outer   often-mist-enshrouded
          Hebrides (aka the Western Isles; Na h-Eileanan an   Cuillin Hills. It’s a
          Iar in Gaelic) – a 130-mile-long string of islands   50-mile-long patchwork
          west of Skye. More than a third of Scotland’s   of velvet moors, jagged
          registered crofts are here, and no less than 60%   mountains, sparkling
          of the population are Gaelic speakers. With limited   lochs and towering sea
          time, head straight for the west coast of Lewis   cliffs. Lively Portree
          with its prehistoric sites, preserved blackhouses,   (Port Righ) has the
          beautiful beaches, and arts and crafts studios – the   island’s only tourist of-
          Lochmaddy Tourist Office (%01867-500321; Pier Rd;   fice (%01478-612992; www.
          h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) can provide a list. Ferries   visitscotland.com; Bayfield Rd;
          (car £30, driver and passenger £6.10 each) run once   h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
          or twice daily from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy (1¾   4pm Sun Jun-Aug, shorter
          hours) and Tarbert (1½ hours).       hours Sep-May; W).
                                                 Skye offers some of
                                               the finest walking in
        www.visitaviemore.com; The   Lower down, scenic glens   Scotland, including some
        Mall, Grampian Rd; h9am-  are softened by beauti-  short, low-level routes.
        5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun   ful open forests of native   The sheltered coves and
        year-round, longer hrs Jul &   Scots pine, home to   sea lochs around the
     GREAT BRITAIN 16 BRITAIN’S WILD SIDE
        Aug) – to the Angus Glens   rare animals and birds   coast of Skye provide
        in the south, and from   such as pine martens,   magnificent sea-kayaking
        Dalwhinnie in the west   wildcats, red squirrels,   opportunities. Skyak Ad-
        to Ballater and Royal   ospreys, capercaillies and   ventures (%01471-820002;
        Deeside in the east.  crossbills.      www.skyakadventures.com; 29
          The park encompasses                 Lower Breakish, Breakish; 1-day
        the highest landmass in   4 p233       course per person from £100)
        Britain – a broad moun-  The Drive » Take the A9   runs expeditions and
        tain plateau, riven only   northwest to Inverness, then   courses for both begin-
        by the deep valleys of the   the southwest-bound A82   ners and experienced
        Lairig Ghru and Loch   along Loch Ness (keeping an   paddlers to otherwise
        Avon, with an average al-  eye out for mythical beasts).   inaccessible places.
                            At Invermoriston join the
        titude of over 1000m and   westbound A887, which   Skye’s stunning scen-
        including five of the six   becomes the A87, and continue   ery is the main attrac-
        highest summits in the   to Kyle of Lochalsh where you’ll   tion, but when the mist
        UK. This wild mountain   cross the Skye Bridge to the   closes in there are plenty
        landscape of granite and   Isle of Skye. Continue along the   of castles, crofting muse-
        heather has a sub-Arctic   A87 to reach Portree (a 145-mile   ums and cosy pubs and
        climate and supports   journey all up).  restaurants, along with
        rare alpine tundra                     dozens of art galleries
        vegetation and high-                   and craft studios.
        altitude bird species,   g Isle of Skye
        such as snow bunting,   The Isle of Skye (an
        ptarmigan and dotterel.   t-Eilean Sgiathanach in





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