Page 270 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

17th-century wall hang-
ings created for Charles I. DETOUR:
The dining room is sump- GLEN LYON
tuous – check out the
9-pint wine glasses – and Start: a Aberfeldy
the ballroom is a vast The ‘longest, loneliest and loveliest glen in Scotland’,
oak-panelled chamber according to Sir Walter Scott, stretches for 32
hung with hundreds of unforgettable miles of rickety stone bridges, native
stag antlers.
woodland and heather-clad hills, becoming wilder
4 p269 and more uninhabited as it snakes its way west. The
ancients believed it to be a gateway to Faerieland,
The Drive » Follow the B8079 and even the most sceptical of visitors will be
southeast out of Blair Atholl for entranced by the valley’s magic.
a few miles, past the historic There are no villages in the glen – the majestic
battle site of Killiecrankie,
and turn right on the B8019 scenery is the main reason to be here – just a cluster
Strathtummel road. This of houses at Bridge of Balgie, where the Bridge of
gloriously scenic road leads Balgie Tearoom (%01887-866221; Bridge of Balgie;
along Loch Tummel (stop for snacks £3-5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct; pW#), with a
photographs at Queen’s View) suntrap of a terrace overlooking the river, serves as
to Tummel Bridge; turn left here a hub for walkers, cyclists and motorists. The owner
on the B846 over the hills to is a fount of knowledge about the glen, and her
Aberfeldy (29 miles).
pistachio and almond cake is legendary.
There are several waymarked woodland walks
beginning from a car park a short distance beyond
a Aberfeldy Bridge of Balgie, and more challenging hill walks into
Aberfeldy is the gateway the surrounding mountains (see www.walkhighlands.
to Breadalbane (the co.uk/perthshire).
GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
historic region surround- From Abefeldy, the B846 leads to the pretty
ing Loch Tay), and a good village Fortingall, famous for its ancient yew tree,
base: adventure sports, where a narrow minor road strikes west up the glen;
angling, art and castles another steep and spectacular route from Loch Tay
all feature on the menu crosses the hills to meet it at Bridge of Balgie. The
here. It’s a peaceful, road continues west as far as the dam on Loch Lyon,
pretty place on the banks passing a memorial to Robert Campbell (1808–94),
of the Tay, but if it’s a Canadian explorer and fur trader, who was born in
moody lochs and glens the glen.
that steal your heart, you
may want to push further
west into Glen Lyon. of town is Aberfeldy blending session. More
You arrive in the town Distillery (www.dewars.com; expensive tours allow
by crossing the River Tay tour adult/child £9.50/4.50; you to try venerable
via the elegant Wade’s h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon- Aberfeldy single malts
Bridge, built in 1733 as 4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm and others.
part of the network of Mon-Sat Nov-Mar; p), home
military roads designed of the famous Dewar’s 4 p269
to tame the Highlands. whisky; tours include an
At the eastern end entertaining interactive

268