Page 284 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Mumbles Rd; h10.30am- at the village of Murton, a sharp zoo and a puppet theatre.
5.30pm), a Swansea right-hand turn leads to the Nearby Parc-le-Breos
institution since it was B4436 and on to the A4118, the (Parkmill) contains the
founded by an Italian main Gower road. remains of a 5500-year-
immigrant in 1922, and old burial chamber.
take a stroll along the However, the real rea-
waterside promenade 3 Parkmill son to stop in Parkmill is
to the Victorian pier The spectacular coastal to take a stroll to Three
(%01792-365225; www. landscape of the Gower Cliffs Bay. Recognised
mumbles-pier.co.uk; Mumbles Peninsula was recognised as one of Britain’s most
Rd). There’s a pretty little by officialdom when it beautiful beaches, Three
sandy beach tucked just was declared the UK’s Cliffs has a memorable
beneath it. If you’re peck- first ‘Area of Outstanding setting, with a ruined
ish there are some good Natural Beauty’ in 1956. 13th-century castle above
cafes and restaurants In the village of Park- and a triple-pointed
spread along the water- mill, historic mill build- rock formation fram-
front, and plenty of pubs ings have been converted ing a natural arch at its
and bars too. into the Gower Heritage eastern end.
Centre (%01792-371206;
4 p289 www.gowerheritagecentre. The Drive » From Parkmill,
The Drive » From the co.uk; Parkmill; adult/child continue west on the A4118,
following the signs to Rhossili.
Mumbles it’s 6 miles to Parkmill £6.80/5.80; h10am-5.30pm; Eventually the road turns left
on the Gower Peninsula. Head c). Despite its worthy- towards the village of Scurlage
uphill on Newton Rd, following sounding name, it’s a and the Rhossili turn-off. All up
the Gower signs. Eventually the great place to take kids, it’s a distance of 10 miles along
houses give way to fields and, incorporating a petting good roads, but it’s quite likely

GREAT BRITAIN 21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
DETOUR:
LAUGHARNE
Start: 6 Carmarthen (p285)
While shooting down the highway between Carmarthen and Tenby, it’s worth
considering taking a left at St Clears to visit the small town of Laugharne
(pronounced ‘larn’) on the Taf estuary. Perched picturesquely above the reed-lined
shore, Laugharne Castle (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales; Wogan St; adult/child £3.80/2.85;
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) is a hefty 13th-century fortress which was converted into a
mansion in the 16th century.
Swansea may have been Dylan Thomas’ birthplace but Laugharne is where
he chose to live out his final years, providing the inspiration for his classic play
for voices Under Milk Wood. Many fans make the pilgrimage here to visit the
boathouse (%01994-427420; www.dylanthomasboathouse.com; Dylan’s Walk; adult/child
£4.20/2; h10am-5pm May-Oct, 10.30am-3pm Nov-Apr) where he lived, the shed where he
wrote and his final resting place in the graveyard of St Martin’s Church. Also worth a
look is cosy Brown’s Hotel (%01994-427688; www.browns-hotel.co.uk; King St; pizza £8-10;
h11am-11pm), one of his favourite watering holes.
Laugharne is situated 4 miles off the highway and you’re best to allocate at least
a couple of hours to explore it properly. Although you can continue southwest from
here on narrow roads, you’re better off backtracking to the A477 to get to Tenby.

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