Page 306 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

them in with its two live ers and traditional cur- era country town with an
céilidh (traditional music rachs with tarred canvas amoeba-shaped oval of
and dancing sessions) bottoms stretched over streets offering evocative
each day. A close second wicker frames. strolls. It presides over
is the cornflower blue Just south of the vil- the head of the narrow
Tigh Neachtain (www.tigh lage, in the remains of an bay where the River
neachtain.com; 17 Upper Cross old Franciscan monas- Owenglin tumbles into
St; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon- tery, is Malachy Kearns’. the sea. The surrounding
Thu & Sun, 10.30am-12.30am Kearns is Ireland’s only countryside beckons you
Fri & Sat), known simply as full-time maker of tradi- to walk through woods
Neachtain’s (nock-tans) tional bodhráns (hand- and above the shoreline.
or Naughtons – stop and held goatskin drums).
join the locals for a pint. Watch him work and buy 54 p312
a tin whistle, harp or The Drive »It’s 154km to the
54 p312 booklet filled with Irish Cliffs of Moher; you’ll have to
The Drive »The most direct ballads; there’s also a backtrack through Galway city
route to Roundstone is to cut small free folk museum (take the N59) before turning
through Connemara along and a cafe. south along the N67. This will
the N59, turning left on the take you through the unique
Clifden Rd – a total of 76km. The Drive »The 22km inland striated landscape of the
IRELAND 22 ICONIC IRELAND
Alternatively, the 103km coastal route from Roundstone to Burren, a moody, rocky and at
route, via the R336 and R340, Clifden is a little longer, but the times fearsome space accented
winds its way around small road is better (especially the with ancient burial chambers
bays, coves and lovely seaside N59) and the brown, barren and medieval ruins.
hamlets. beauty of Connemara is yours
to behold. The 18km coastal
route along the R341 brings TRIP HIGHLIGHT
3 Roundstone you through more speckled 5 Cliffs of Moher
landscape; to the south you’ll
Huddled on a boat-filled have glimpses of the ocean. Star of a million tourist
harbour, Roundstone brochures, the Cliffs of
(Cloch na Rón) is one Moher (Aillte an Mothair,
of Connemara’s gems. or Ailltreacha Mothair)
Colourful terrace houses 4 Clifden are one of the most popu-
and inviting pubs over- lar sights in Ireland.
look the dark recess of Connemara’s ‘capital’, The entirely vertical
Bertraghboy Bay, which Clifden (An Clochán) is cliffs rise to a height of
is home to lobster trawl- an appealing Victorian- 203m, their edge falling
away abruptly into the
constantly churning sea.
A series of heads, the
DETOUR: dark limestone seems to
THE SKY ROAD march in a rigid forma-
tion that amazes, no
Start: 4 Clifden matter how many times
If you head directly west from Clifden’s Market you look.
Sq you’ll come onto the Sky Road, a 12km route Such appeal comes
tracing a spectacular loop out to the township of at a price: crowds. This
Kingston and back to Clifden, taking in some rugged, is check-off tourism big
stunningly beautiful coastal scenery en route. It’s a time and bus-loads come
cinch to drive, but you can also easily walk or cycle it. and go constantly in
summer. A vast visitor
centre (www.cliffsofmoher.ie;

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