Page 352 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

air. At tiny Maghera,
head through the car
DETOUR: park, down a track, over
FINTOWN RAILWAY a boardwalk and onto a
truly stunning expanse
Start: h Arranmore Island (p349) of pure-white sand. This
You’ve been driving for days now – time to let the exquisite place belies
train take the strain. The charming Fintown Railway a bloody past. Some
(%074-954 6280; www.antraen.com; off R250, Fintown; 100 villagers hid from
adult/child €8/5; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Jun–mid- Cromwell’s forces in
Sep) runs along a rebuilt 5km section of the former nearby caves – all except
County Donegal Railway track beside picturesque one were discovered and
Lough Finn. It’s been lovingly restored to its original massacred.
condition, and a return trip in the red-and-white,
1940s diesel railcar takes around 40 minutes. To get The Drive » Drive west
to the railway, head east on the R252, off the N56 through Maghera on a dramatic
route that makes straight for the
south of Dungloe. Then settle back to enjoy the ride.
gap in the towering hills. At the
fork, turn right, heading deeper
into the remote headland, making
The Drive » The R259 remains: St Connell, a for Glencolumbcille (20km).
bounces down to Dungloe, cousin of St Colmcille,
where you take the N56 south founded a monastery
into a rock-strewn landscape here in the 6th century. k Glencolumbcille
that’s backed by the Blue Stack
IRELAND 25 THE NORTH IN A NuTSHELL
Mountains. After a stretch 4 p351 The welcome in the
of rally-circuit-esque road, scattered, pub-dotted,
the sweep of Gweebarra Bay The Drive » Continue south bayside village of
emerges. Take the sharp right on the R261 through tweed- Glencolumbcille (Gleann
towards peaceful Narin (R261), producing Ardara. Shortly after Cholm Cille) is warm.
following signs to the beach (trá), leaving town, take the right, This remote settlement
45km from Arranmore Island. signed ‘Waterfall’, following a road also offers a glimpse of a
wedged between craggy hills and
an increasingly sandy shore. In disappearing way of life.
time the Assarancagh Waterfall Father McDyer’s Folk
i Narin (14km) comes into view. Village (www.glenfolkvillage.
You’ve now entered the com; Doonalt; adult/child
beautiful Loughrea €4.50/2.50; h10am-6pm
Peninsula, which j Assarancagh Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Easter-
glistens with tiny lakes Waterfall Sep) took traditional life
cupped by undulating Step out of the car and of the 1960s and froze
hills. Narin boasts a you immediately feel it in time. Its thatched
spectacular 4km-long, what an enchanting spot cottages re-create daily
wishbone-shaped Blue this is. As the waterfall life with genuine period
Flag beach, the sandy tip streams down the sheer fittings, while the Craft
of which points towards hillside, walk along Shop sells wines made
Iniskeel Island. You can the road (really a lane) from such things as
walk to the island at low towards the sea. This seaweed, as well as
tide along a 500m sandy 1.5km route leads past marmalade and whiskey
causeway. Your reward? time-warp farms – sheep truffles – a few treats at
An intimate island stud- bleat and the tang of your journey’s end.
ded with early Christian
peat smoke scents the

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