Page 415 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

León d Santiago de Compostela j
5 Delirios Contemporary Castilian €€ 5 O Curro
(%987 23 76 99; www.restaurantedelirios. da Parra Contemporary Galician €€
com; Calle Ave Maria 2; mains €12-20; h1.30- (www.ocurrodaparra.com; Rúa do Curro da Parra
3.30pm & 9-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm 7; mains €17-23, tapas €4-8; h1.30-3.30pm &
Sun) One of the city’s more adventurous 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm Sun) With
dining options where innovative combinations a neat little stone-walled dining room upstairs
such as tuna tataki with orange and ginger, and a narrow tapas and wine bar below, O Curro
and brie and foie gras with coconut hit the da Parra serves up a broad range of thoughtfully
mark virtually every time. Those with more created, market-fresh fare. You might go for
conservative taste buds can opt for dishes pork cheeks with apple purée and spinach – or
such as steak with parsnip chips, while just ask what the fish and seafood of the day
the chocolate mousse with passionfruit is are. On weekday lunchtimes there’s a good-
designed to put a satisfied waddle in every value €12 menú mercado (market menu).
diner’s step. Reservations recommended. 4 Hotel Costa Vella Boutique Hotel €€
4 La Posada Regia Historic Hotel €€ (%981 56 95 30; www.costavella.com; Rúa SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
(%987 21 31 73; www.regialeon.com; Calle de da Porta da Pena 17; s €59, d €81-97; aW)
Regidores 9-11; s/d incl breakfast from €54/59; Tranquil, thoughtfully designed rooms – some
aW) This place has the feel of a casa rural with typically Galician galerías (glassed-in
(village accommodation) despite being in balconies) – a friendly welcome and a lovely
the city centre. The secret is a 14th-century garden cafe make this old stone house a
building, magnificently restored (wooden wonderful option, and the €6 breakfast is
beams, exposed brick and understated antique substantial. Even if you don’t stay, it’s an ideal
furniture), with individually styled rooms and spot for breakfast or coffee. Book ahead from
supremely comfortable beds and bathrooms. May to September.
As with anywhere in the Barri Gótic, weekend
nights can be noisy. 4 Parador Hostal
dos Reis Católicos Historic Hotel €€€
4 Hostal de (%981 58 22 00; www.parador.es; Praza
San Marcos Historic Hotel €€€ do Obradoiro 1; r incl breakfast from €205;
(%987 23 73 00; www.parador.es; Plaza de San paiW) Opened in 1509 as a pilgrims’
Marcos 7; d incl breakfast from €134; aiW) hostel, and with a claim to be the world’s oldest
Despite the confusing ‘hostal’ in the name, hotel, this palatial parador just steps from the
León’s sumptuous parador (state-owned cathedral is Santiago’s top hotel, with regal (if
hotel) is one of the finest hotels in Spain. With rather staid) rooms. If you’re not staying, stop
palatial rooms fit for royalty and filled with in for a look round (hnoon-2pm & 4-6pm
old-world luxury and decor, this is one of the Sun-Fri; admission €3) and coffee and cakes at
Parador chain’s flagship properties and as you’d the elegant cafe.
expect, the service and attention to detail are
faultless. It also houses the Convento de
San Marcos.

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