Page 454 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

com; Rua do Agro 141; tour demarcated port-wine The Drive » From Peso da
€5-20; h9.30am-6pm Apr- area. It grew into a major Régua, take the first exit onto
Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar) and port-wine entrepôt in the the N2 at the roundabout at
Calém (%223 746 672; www. 18th century. While not the end of Rua Dr Manuel de
calem.pt; Avenida Diogo Leite as charming as its set- Arriaga, then the third exit at
344; Cellar visit & tasting adult/ ting, the town is worth the next roundabout to join the
N313. Turn right onto the N313-1
reduced/under 12 €5/2.50/ visiting for its Museu do when you see the yellow sign to
free; h10am-6.30pm). Douro (www.museudodouro. Quinta do Vallado. It’s around a
pt; Rua Marqués de Pombal; 5km drive.
The Drive » There are quicker
ways of getting from A to B, adult/concession €6/3;
sure, but for immersion in Douro h10am-6pm daily May-Oct,
wine country, you can’t beat this Tue-Sun Nov-Apr). Housed in 3 Quinta do Vallado
three-hour (137km) drive east a beautifully converted Ah, what views! The
on the N108. The serpentine riverside warehouse, vineyards spread pic-
road shadows the Río Douro the museum whisks
from Porto to Peso da Régua, you through the entire turesquely before you
with views of hillsides combed wine spectrum, from from Quinta do Vallado
with vines, little chapels and (%254 318 081, 254 323
woodlands spilling down to the impressionist landscapes 147; www.quintadovallado.
sparkling river. to the remains of an com; Vilarinho dos Freires;
old flat-bottomed port r €120-180; paWs),
hauler. Down at the a glorious 70-hectare
2 Peso da Régua pier, you’ll find frequent winery. It brings together
Terraced hills scaled 50-minute boat trips to five rooms in an old
with vines like a dragon’s Pinhão, offered by Tomaz stone manor and eight
backbone rise around do Douro (%222 081 935; swank rooms in an ultra-
PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
riverside Peso da Régua. www.viadouro-cruzeiros. modern slate building,
The sun-bleached town com; cruises from €10), for decked out with chestnut
is the region’s largest, instance. and teak wood, each
abutting the Río Douro 54 p457 complete with a balcony.
at the western end of the They all share a gorgeous
pool. Guests get a free
tour of the winery, with a
tasting. Have a fine wine-
DETOUR: paired meal and stay the
DOC night. The staff can also
help arrange activities
Start: 2 Peso da Régua like cycling, hiking,
Architect Miguel Saraiva’s ode to clean-lined, glass- fishing or canoeing – just
walled minimalism, DOC (%254 858 123; www.ruipaula. ask.
com; Folgosa; mains €27.50-29; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30- The Drive » From Quinta do
11pm) is headed up by Portuguese star chef Rui Paula. Vallado, the N313-2, CM1258
Its terrace peering out across the river is a stunning and N322-2 take you on a
backdrop. Dishes give a pinch of imagination to 29km drive east through the
seasonal, regional flavours, from fish açordas (stews) curvaceous wine terraces of the
to game and wild mushrooms – all of which are Alto Douro, past immaculately
paired with carefully selected wines from the cellar. tended rows of vines and chalk-
It’s in Folgosa, midway between Peso da Régua and white hamlets, with tantalising
glimpses of the river below.
Pinhão, on the south side of the river. Take the N2 After Gouvinhas, the wiggling
south of Peso da Régua, then hook onto the N222 road takes you south to Quinta
heading east. do Crasto.

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