Page 488 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

the illusion that you’re
looking at four separate CAT & MOUSE
lakes rather than a single
river. Two rival castles stand either side of the village of
St Goarshausen. Burg Peterseck was built by the
The Drive » Take the B9
south from Boppard for 15km, archbishop of Trier to counter the toll practices
passing Burg Maus across the of the powerful Katzenelnbogen family. The latter
river on the eastern bank near responded by building a much bigger castle high on
the village of Wellmich. Shortly the other side of town, Burg Neukatzenelnbogen,
afterwards, you’ll spot Burg which was dubbed Burg Katz, meaning ‘Cat Castle’.
Rheinfels on the western bank Highlighting the obvious imbalance of power
above St Goar. between the Katzenelnbogens and the archbishop,
Burg Peterseck was soon nicknamed Burg Maus
(Mouse Castle). Both are closed to the public.
8 St Goar
Lording over the vil-
lage of St Goar are the of the Loreley outcrop
sprawling ruins of Burg 9 Loreley 190m above the river.
Rheinfels (www.st-goar. The most storied spot The Drive » Return to the
de; adult/child €5/2.50; along the Romantic Rhine, B42 at the bottom of the hill; on
h9am-6pm mid-Mar–late Oct, Loreley is an enormous, your left, you’ll see Burg Katz.
GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
11am-5pm late Oct–mid-Nov), almost vertical slab of Travel south for 2km to the car
at one time the mightiest slate that owes its fame to park by the breakwater for the
fortress on the Rhine. a mythical maiden whose next stop, the Lorelei Sculpture.
Built in 1245 by Count siren songs are said to
Dieter von Katzeneln- have lured sailors to their
bogen as a base for his death in the river’s treach- a Lorelei Sculpture
toll-collecting operations, erous currents. Heinrich At the tip of a narrow
its size and labyrinthine Heine told the tale in his breakwater jutting into
layout are astonishing. 1824 poem Die Lorelei. the Rhine, a bronze
Kids (and adults) will On the edge of the sculpture of Loreley’s
love exploring the sub- plateau 4km southeast famous maiden perches
terranean tunnels and of the village of St Goar- lasciviously atop a rocky
galleries (bring a torch). shausen, visitor centre platform. From the
From St Goar’s northern Loreley Besucherzen- car park, you can walk
edge, follow the Schloss- trum (%06771-599 093; the 600m out to the
berg road to the castle. www.loreley-besucherzentrum. sculpture, from where
54 p489 de; Loreleyring 7; adult/ there are fantastic views
of both riverbanks, but
child €2.50/1.50, parking
The Drive » At St Goar, €2; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, be aware that the rough
take the five-minute car ferry 10am-5pm Mar, 11am-4pm Sat path is made from jag-
across to the little village of & Sun Nov-Feb) covers the ged slate (wear sturdy
St Goarshausen. From St shoes!) and the gentler
Goarshausen’s Marktplatz, follow Loreley myth and local sandy lower path is often
the L338 as it twists steeply flora, fauna, shipping and underwater.
uphill through thick forest for winemaking traditions.
1.2km and turn right onto the A 300m gravel path leads The Drive » Leaving the car
K89 for 2.5km to reach Loreley. to a viewpoint at the tip park, take the B42 south for
8km to the little village of Kaub,
and park next to the ferry dock.

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