Page 548 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

ISLAND DINING

Genevan living is easy in summer when a constant crowd throngs the lakefront
quays to hang out in pop-up terrace bars such as La Terrasse (www.laterrasse.ch;
Quai du Mont-Blanc 31; h8am-midnight Apr-Sep), the fashionista spot by the water to see
and be seen. Meander away from Quai du Mont-Blanc to uncover a brilliant trio of
beloved summertime shacks on the water’s edge – alfresco and effortlessly cool.
The right-bank address is refreshingly casual: Rhône-side Terrasse Le Paradis
(%079 665 35 73; www.terrasse-paradis.ch; Quai Turrettini; sandwiches & salads Sfr10-14;
h10am-9pm Jun-Sep) is the type of cafe that practically begs you to pull out a book
and stay all day in its deckchairs arranged down steps to the water while sipping
beakers of homemade citronnade (lemonade). ‘Paradise’ does not serve alcohol,
but the pots of green-mint tea flow and the wholly affordable sandwiches, salads
and legendary taboulé hit the spot.
Le Bateau Lavoir (Passerelle des Lavandières; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri,
5pm-2am Sat May-Sep) is an eye-catching boat with rooftop terrace moored between
the old market hall and Pont de la Coulouvrenière. Its cabin-size dining area cooks
fondue and other basic local dishes, the crowd is hip and there is a 360-degree lake
view. Its very design and name evokes the wash-house boats – yes, where undies et
al were washed – that floated here in the 17th century.
Then there’s La Barje (Terrasse des Lavandières; www.labarje.ch; Promenade des
Lavandières; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat & Sun Apr-Sep), not a barge at all
SWITZERLAND 38 GENEvA TO ZüRICH
but a vintage caravan with tin roof and candy-striped facade, parked on the grassy
banks of the Rhône near the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices. The beer and music are
plentiful, outside concerts and art performances pull huge crowds, and proceeds go
towards helping young people in difficulty.

adult/child Sfr20/7, audioguide Affoltern and Langnau im The region’s gateway
Sfr6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Emmental is 21km (25 minutes). towns of Burgdorf and
and the well-endowed Langnau im Emmental
Kunstmuseum (Museum preside over a mellow
of Fine Arts; %031 328 09 44; 5 Emmental Region patchwork of quiet vil-
www.kunstmuseumbern.ch; After so much city time, lages, grazing cows and
Hodlerstrasse 8-12; adult/child the postcard-perfect fabulous farm chalets
Sfr7/free; h10am-9pm Tue, to landscapes of rural with vast barns and over-
5pm Wed-Sun). Switzerland beckon, with hanging roofs, strung out
the bucolic idyll that is along the banks of the
54 p549
the Emmental region, Emme river. Burgdorf
The Drive » Leave where iconic and holey (literally ‘castle village’)
Bern via the A6 and take Emmental (Swiss) cheese is split into an Upper and
Krauchthalstrasse (35 minutes, is produced. To see how Lower Town. The natural
about 24km) through verdant the cheese is made, highlight of the Ober-
countryside to Burgdorf. head to Emmentaler stadt (Upper Town) is
From Burgdorf to Affoltern im
Emmental, 6km to the east, is a Schaukäserei (%034 the 12th-century Schloss
scenic drive past old farmsteads 435 16 11; www.showdairy. (castle), with its draw-
proudly bedecked with flower ch; Schaukäsereistrasse 6, bridge, thick stone walls
boxes, neat woodpiles and Affoltern; h9am-6.30pm and trio of museums.
kitchen gardens. Rte 23 between Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) in
Affoltern. The Drive » From Langnau
im Emmental, take Rte 10 for
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