Page 74 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Villa Rufolo (%089 85 76 54 p73 at Al Convento (%089
21; www.villarufolo.it; Piazza 26 10 39; www.alconvento.
Duomo; adult/reduced €5/3; The Drive » Head back net; Piazza San Francesco 16;
h9am-8pm summer, to 4pm down to the SS163 for a 19km meals €30; h12.30-3pm &
journey that twists and turns
winter). Created by Scots- challengingly along the coast to 7-11pm summer, closed Wed
man Scott Neville Reid in Cetara. Pine trees and a variety winter), a sterling seafood
1853, these gardens com- of flowering shrubs line the way. restaurant near the small
bine celestial panoramic harbour.
views, exotic colours, The Drive » From Cetara to
artistically crumbling a Cetara Vietri sul Mare, head northeast
towers and luxurious Cetara is a picturesque, for 6km on the SS163 for
blooms. tumbledown fishing more twisting, turning and
Also worth seeking village with a reputa- stupendous views across the
out is the wonderful tion as a gastronomic Golfo di Salerno.
Camo (%089 85 74 61; delight. Since medieval
Piazza Duomo 9, Ravello; times it has been an
h10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon- important fishing centre, b Vietri sul Mare
Sat). Squeezed between and today its deep-sea Marking the end of the
ITALY 4 AMALFI COAST
tourist-driven shops, this tuna fleet is considered coastal road, Vietri sul
very special place is, on one of the Mediterra- Mare is the ceramics
the face of it, a cameo nean’s most important. capital of Campania.
shop. And exquisite they At night, fishermen set Although production
are too, crafted primarily out in small boats armed dates back to Roman
out of coral and shell. with powerful lamps to times, it didn’t take off
But don’t stop here; ask fish for anchovies. No as an industry until the
to see the treasure trove surprise then that tuna 16th and 17th centuries.
of a museum beyond the and anchovies dominate Today, ceramics shopa-
showroom. local menus, especially holics find their paradise
at the Ceramica Artistica
Solimene (%089 21 02
43; www.ceramicasolimene.
DETOUR: it; Via Madonna degli Angeli
RAVELLO WALKS 7; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
1.30pm & 4-8pm Sat), a vast
Start: 9 Ravello (p71) factory outlet with an
Ravello is the starting point for numerous walks extraordinary glass and
that follow ancient paths through the surrounding ceramic facade.
Lattari mountains. If you’ve got the legs for it, you For a primer on the
can walk down to Minori via an attractive route of area’s ceramics past,
steps, hidden alleys and olive groves, passing the devotees should seek
picturesque hamlet of Torello en route. Alternatively, out the Museo della
you can head the other way, to Amalfi, via the Ceramica (%089 21 18 35;
ancient village of Scala. Once a flourishing religious Villa Guerriglia, Via Nuova Raito;
centre with more than a hundred churches and h9am-3pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-
the oldest settlement on the Amalfi Coast, Scala 1pm Sun) in the nearby
is now a pocket-sized sleepy place where the wind village of Raito.
whistles through empty streets, and gnarled locals go
patiently about their daily chores.

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