Page 135 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland
P. 135

DRIVE 12: Through the Sally Gap  133




















                                                        Above left Patchwork fields in the foothills of
       ª Return to Enniskerry and take the   heather, dotted with pools and   the Wicklow Mountains Above Johnnie Fox’s,
       right-hand road uphill from the   streams. It follows the Military Road,   a pub with plenty of character and good food
       square. Continue past Kilgarron   built through the mountains to flush
       Cottages and Glen View and follow   out rebels after the 1798 Rebellion.
       the road to Glencree.   Now the road provides easy access to
                               the Wicklow Mountains National Park,
          The Wicklow Mountains  which has open access for walkers.
        Wicklow Mountains National Park   The landscape changes colour with
        extends over 20,000 ha (50,000) acres   the seasons from bright green in
        of upland mountain scenery   spring to purple in summer and
        southwest of Enniskerry. The product   russet-brown in autumn, and snow-
        of the interaction of man and nature   white in winter. Look out for stacks of    EAT AND DRINK
        through turf-cutting over thousands
        of years, it is a rugged wilderness of   freshly cut peat. Towards the end of
        unpopulated heath and extensive   the pass there is a viewpoint over the   ENNISKERRY
        bogland. Although no peak exceeds   Wicklow Gap, another scenic route.  Poppies inexpensive
        915 m (3,000 ft), the mountains can   ª Continue south on the R115 and turn   With wholesome country cooking, this
        be dangerous in bad weather, and   right at Laragh onto the R755. After the   friendly and cosy café is always
        the roads are narrow, winding and   sign for Wicklow Gap, turn left into the   buzzing and is a great place to stop for
        bumpy in summer, and may be                     breakfast, morning coffee or lunch.
        impassable after snow in winter.   car park at Glendalough Visitor Centre.  Plenty of choice for vegetarians.
                                                        The Square; 01 282 8869; open
                               Below  Powerscourt Waterfall cascades into the   daytime only
       3 Glencree              River Dargle from a height of 400 ft (122 m)  Emilia’s Ristorante moderate
       Co Wicklow                                       This friendly Italian restaurant has a
       The Valley of Glencree is home to the            sister shop below, Emilia’s Fine Food
       Glencree Centre for Peace and                    and Wine, which is a good lunch stop.
                                                        Enniskerry; 01 276 1834; www.emilias.ie
       Reconciliation, established in the 1970s
       in response to the Northern Ireland              AROUND ENNISKERRY
       conflict, but now concerned with                 Johnnie Fox’s moderate–expensive
       global peace-building. It is housed in           From Enniskerry drive towards
       an 18th-century British barracks. There          Dublin through the Scalp (R117 north)
                                                        to reach Johnnie Fox’s, Ireland’s
       is a Visitor Centre (open daily) and café.       highest pub, with nightly music,
       Further along the valley is the German           crackling turf fires and excellent
       Cemetery containing graves of                    steaks and seafood.
       servicemen killed in the world wars.             Glencullen; 01 295 5647; www.jfp.ie
       ª Leaving Glencree visitor centre,               POWERSCOURT ESTATE
       turn left onto the R115 and drive south          The Terrace Café moderate
       through the Sally Gap.                           Run by Avoca (see pp136–7), typical
                                                        fare includes imaginative salads,
       4 Sally Gap                                      Mediterranean tarts and hearty
       Co Wicklow                                       casseroles (beef and Guinness a
                                                        speciality). Views over the gardens
       One of the most spectacular drives in            and Sugar Loaf mountain.
       Wicklow, this remote mountain pass               Powerscourt House; 01 204 6070;
       is surrounded by blanket bog and                 www.avoca.ie
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


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