Page 144 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

142 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Celbridge 2 Clane
Co Kildare Co Kildare
This well-preserved village on the The Neo-Gothic Protestant church
Liffey has long associations with the (1884) on elegant Main Street stands
author and Dean of St Patrick’s, on the site of one of the earliest
Dublin, Jonathan Swift (1667–1745). monasteries in Ireland. Founded
His beloved Esther Van Homrigh, around the 5th century, it predated
whom he immortalized as “Vanessa”, the arrival of St Patrick. Nothing of
lived at Celbridge Abbey. At the it remains today. Just outside the
end of the Main Street, the gates of village, on the R407 heading north, is
Castletown House (open mid-Mar–Oct: Clongowes Wood College, a long-
daily) open onto a long driveway to established Jesuit boarding school,
the house, now accessible only on set in a beautiful estate of ancient
foot (cars must turn left at the gate woods and playing fields, the latter
and follow the signs around to the evoked by former student James
right and find the back entrance and Joyce in the opening pages of A
car park). The house was built in Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man.
1722 for William Conolly, the Speaker The main building is Castle Browne,
of the Irish House of Commons, and which was a border fort of the Pale,
is the largest private house in Ireland. that part of Ireland around Dublin
It is a masterpiece of Georgian controlled by the English until the
architecture in the Palladian 17th century.
style. The interiors were ª Continue along the R407;
created by Lady Louisa take the side road to the left
Lennox, wife of Conolly’s signposted Donadea, follow
Above The 13th-century fortified tower of great-nephew, and the signs to Donadea Forest
Barberstown Castle include the only intact Park and park in the car park.
18th-century print room in
Ireland. A portrait of Lady 3 Donadea
Louisa can be seen in the Co Kildare
superb stuccowork on The Aylmer family lived at
the staircase. Castletown Conolly family crest, Donadea Castle from the
is set in a stately park of Castletown House 15th to the 20th century.
mature trees. Also within The property is now
the park is Conolly’s Folly, built by owned by the state. The imposing
Richard Castle, commissioned castle still stands but is derelict.
by Conolly’s widow, Katherine, Visitors can walk on waymarked
in 1740 as a memorial to him and trails of varying lengths around the
to provide employment on the 240-ha (590-acre) Donadea Forest
WHERE TO STAY AROUND estate after a harsh winter. Park (open daily) with its mixed
CLANE
ª Leaving Celbridge, take the R403 woodland, walled garden, streams,
Westgrove moderate to Clane. lake and boat house. In a grove of
Top-class hotel with luxurious rooms,
comprehensive leisure facilities – Below left Interior of Castletown House, Celbridge, decorated in the Pompeiian style
including swimming pools – and Below right Exquisite mahogany bureau flanked by 18th-century portraits in Castletown House
a fine restaurant.
Abbeylands; 045 989 900;
www.westgrovehotel.com
Barberstown Castle
moderate-expensive
This long-established country house
hotel, the oldest part of which dates
from the 13th century, is set in its own
extensive grounds, with lovely
gardens; rooms furnished with
antiques; a fine-dining restaurant
and comfortable public areas with
log fires in winter.
Straffan, Clane (located off the
R403 between Celbridge and Clane,
7 km/4 miles from Clane – well
signposted); 01 628 8157;
www.barberstowncastle.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

142-145_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 142 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
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